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Hasselblad CFV Digital Back CONTINUED

Interesting design. Not the most obvious politely speaking.

Now the next questions are: - how long does it take to fully charge the TOY battery (or in other words, how long does one need to keep the back switched on with the charger connected)? - once fully charged, how long can the TOY battery power the TOY circuitry?

Documenting all of this in the manual would certainly help avoid heartburn for both customers as well as the repair people having to explain things to the customers sending their backs for repair.

Wilko
 
That's what these dealers are trained to do. Mine gets every question answered very quickly. I just never asked him this clock question.

Talk about lack of info. My new Aptus 75s arrived with all new software. including a tutorial. I do not have as responsive a dealer with Leaf as I do with Hasselblad, so I had to figure it all out myself.

Prior to the "S" version of the Aptus 75, you could open the MOS files directly in PSCS. I was disappointed to find that no longer true with the new back. I went to search the Leaf site and accidently stumbled on a new RAW converter ... that wasn't included in the software pack of the new back !!!!! Evidently the new MOS files are loss-less compressed to increase write speed, and a converter is needed first to then be able to use PSCS or Lightroom... just like Hasselblad 3F files have to be converted to DNGs before using PS.

It would've been nice if they told me that , and even better if it was included with the back.
 
Marc

Let me give you some information , just before I will try to report my AFi test shots .

The LEAF AFi (or SINAR HY6 or ROLLI HY6) can be bought seperately as well as the new SCHNEIDER AFD lenses .
So if you have a LEAF APTUS 75S (I envy you for that back) you can buy the HY6 body and must not go for a bundle .

The body will be available in Germany not before the end of the year and will cost about 3800€ , the standard lens AFD 2,8/80 from Schneider will be about 1600€ (prices for Germany)

Yes , Marc I must agree , the information policy of the DIGI BACK companies is poor , and that anoys me very much .

If you just have a little digi thing , you would not expect more , but if you pay 30000 € for an APTUS 75S or a 39MB HASSELBLAD BACK , you can expect more . Much more .

As we say in Germany : They all cook with water only .
They all go for the money only and the service is not as it should be .

Jürgen
 
I don't know what the situation in Europe is like Jurgen, but your accounts provide a hint that it isn't good ... conversely, Hasselblad here in the US has been as good or better than my other experiences with high priced, high technology.

This has been almost 100% attributable to the dealer I selected. Service isn't through a faceless Hasselblad, it's through my dealer who has a relentless passion for understanding and using these machines.

After a re-install of my computer operating system, I had to call him to re-set up Flexcolor. I got him while he was driving home at night, and he walked me through it all without needing a screen in front of him. I was amazed.

So, I will repeat that advice here once more. WHO you buy a digital MF system from is more important than WHAT brand you buy.

In the end, if there is not a good dealer to buy from, then my advice is to steer clear of this stuff regardless of brand name ... because they are all the same.
 
So, I will repeat that advice here once more. WHO you buy a digital MF system from is more important than WHAT brand you buy. >

Years ago I sold equipment, and when it was delivered I would always provide on site set-up, training and offered additional in house training if they preferred. Also, I answered all questions arising thereafter and serviced the equipment or have a service tech do so. I would also advise them of updates.

Remember when product instruction manuals contained photographs and step by step instructions with language that did not need interpretation, easy to find telephone numbers with knowledgeable, interested persons that took pride in there product and wanted to keep your business answering the telephone.

Regards:

Gilbert
 
Marc Williams (Fotografz) wrote on October 14:

' 2007 - 7:20 pm,'
I reset the CFV this morning and it already is off. But I had it on for only a minute, and haven't used the camera for some time. So, I just reset the time again and am leaving the camera on until the battery dies. Then we'll see if it's all better.





I left the CFV on until the battery was drained....So far so good..the date and time are working again.

Steve
 
I left the CFV on until the battery was drained....So far so good..the date and time are working again.>

Seems like a lot charging for battery to operate what should be a small drain circuit. Please let us know how long it operates.

Regards:

Gilbert
 
These are a couple I shot with the 503CWD and 80mm, Today while on a nice little ride. Nothing special, just sharing.

33858.jpg


33859.jpg


33860.jpg
 
Mine CFV is also now spot on Stephen.

Gilbert, I don't think it requires leaving it on that long, or anything close to that long, to charge the internal battery.

For me the CFV is used periodically, and may sit dormant for some time since I primarily use the H3D cameras a majority of the time. So, the question is ... given no use at all, how long will the battery run the clock before it loses it's accuracy?

I probably will have to reset the clock as I have been doing when prepping for a shoot. But now I know to leave it on for a while to charge the clock battery. I'll wager that it's the same issue I've had with the other lesser used cameras.

Bryant, what's with the mottled sky in the B&W version of your shot above? How are you converting to B&W?
 
Bryant, Noticed that your pic s&les were quite soft.
But what I was pleased to see was any real Yellow Cast" How did you compensate for it. Out of camera or in flexic?

Oh on more thing as you are new to the 503cwd.
What lens are u using for standard? the 50mm.? or sticking to the 80mm.?

Can anyone come in on these questions please.

Peter
 
Probably soft because I the upload on this forum requires that the images are below 130kb which I seem to have to drastically reduce quality to get that.

I have only had the 503cwd for about month. I intend to use the 80mm as my standard lens as my next lens will be a 150.

As far as the yellow it is mostly me compensating in post. I will post originals tomorrow morning when i have a chance.
 
I am using the 80 at the moment since it is my only lens right now. It is ok for portraiture work for me - but a bit on the long side as general walk around lens. I am right now looking into a 60 or 50 distagon to complement my kit. But that is just me. ;)

Regards Andy
 
Bryant Understand about quality. As for the image tint. Understand that that is a general characteristic or flaw of the CWD software.
Diglloyd mentioned/Quoted: "Color rendition—the 503CWD renders with a yellowish cast. Shooting a Macbeth card or similar neutral target might be required for accurate color."

From what i have seen a lot of pics on the CWD site seem to have that yellowish cast.

OPEN QUESTION:

To Lens for standard use : I am about to collect my kit which has the 80 and 40. but seems will need the 50 to compensate for the crop factor. is this correct?

Peter
 
Here is an attempt of a little report of the LEAF AFi roadshow .

The roadshow was well vistited by professionals , but nonetheless I had enough time to do some test shootings .

There are currently only 3 beta models of the LEAF AFi available (worldwide , and the same is valid for SINAR HY6 and ROLLEIFLEX HY6) and only one was available for this roadshow . No prismfinder and only the standard SCHNEIDER XENOTAR 2,8/80 AFD lens .
But all camera bodies are the same and can also attach the same backs and film magazines .
This AFi is a LEAF and was only equipped with a LEAF APTUS 75S .

There is a little difference between the LEAF , SINAR and Rolleiflex bodies , which is the color of the control buttons . AFi is grey , ROLLEIFLEX HY6 is red and SINAR HY6 might be blue . No final decision yet .

Let us look to the backs first . The possibility to "rotate" the back for portrait or landscape is not a swivel operation , but just pressing a little button and you can pull the back off the body , rotate it by hand and put it on again . The position control is done by 4 pins , one in each corner of the back . So this feature is only good for studio work , but very laborious for event photography , because you need to do the "swivel" with a lot of care .
The above is valid for any digital back as well as for the 4,5x6 film back .

WLF . Not a beauty but very solid and much wider , than the V-SYSTEM WLF . The control button to flip out the diopter lens (similar to V-SYSTEM) is not in the middle , but at the right side . I think , this is very handy , because you will not find your fingerprints on the diopterglass , if you do not move away your fingers fast enough . ( This happens to me very often with the V-SYSTEM WLF )

SCHNEIDER XENOTAR 2,8/80 AFD .
This was the only lens available at the roadshow . The following lenses will be available by the end of the year . 50 , 80 , 150 and possibly a zoom . Other lenses will follow next year , especially the 28mm FLEKTAGON WA lens .

Now the CUBE .
I can only talk for righthanders . If you are a real lefthander , you might have some trouble here .
What I noticed right away , when I took the camera into my hands , it is , as if it was a V-SYSTEM camera , although there is the big and very handy grip on the right side . That grip has a little LCD info display on top , showing you the current aperture and the shutter speed .
There is still room for other info in a second line , for ex&le , what is the current temperature , or how many beers you already had .
The type of this info is still not finally decided .
If you hold the camera like a 501CM for ex&le , but still your right hand around the grip , you will find your left middle finger very near a small button , which when pressed allows you to rotate the grip into 4 different positions , including almost vertical and almost horizontal . This very handy in deed .
With the fingers of your right hand you can serve the release button but also some other little keys for various operations . I can not remember all of them , but one is the mirror prerelease . Very handy. The mirror flip up and down is very silent . I was surprised.

Now to the left side of the cube . All buttons here are recessed , so that you can lay down the camera onto this side . I could operate all of them easily with my left thoumb .
Four groups of keys positioned in a circle . The front is a flash shoes and a little flash control button . On the top you will find the camera control buttons , very similar to the ones from a 203FE or 205TCC . in the rear are the keys for the meter setting options , like spot or differential metering . At the bottom you fin the Af control keys , like S = single AF , C = continious AF and M = manual . All groups also have a little locking key , so that you can lock your setting .
On the left top front corner you still find a little wheel , where you can adjust for single shot and multi shot .
This multishot does not refer to multishot possibility of digital backs , but indicates , that you can doe successive shots , after you did a prerelease of the mirror . So between the shots , there is no mirror movement .

The AF is very fast but I found it is a bit noisy , as if there is a little bit of sand in the lens .
But this lens was a beta version as well . I am shure , the SCHNEIDER people still remove the sand .

Bodies of any type (LEAF, SINAR or ROLLEI) can be bought seperate , as well as the lenses . No Bundle need , but a bundle will shurely be cheaper .
The body will cost 3800 € here and the 2,8/80 AFD will be around 1600 € .
All items will be available by the beginning of the year 2008 .
Thats it . I hope you enjoyed the report .

Jürgen
 
OPEN QUESTION:

To Lens for standard use : I am about to collect my kit which has the 80 and 40. but seems will need the 50 to compensate for the crop factor. is this correct?

Peter

IMO, If you have a 40mm, adding a 50mm would be a waste of money. The 180mm would be my next addition. Of the 5 lenses that I have, the 50 and 180 are the most used.

Steve
 
I left the CFV on until the battery was drained....So far so good..the date and time are working again.>

Seems like a lot charging for battery to operate what should be a small drain circuit. Please let us know how long it operates.

Regards:

Gilbert


Time is still accurate..I suspect that the charge will last months..but I will leave the back on longer. I have been turning the back off after short shooting periods to avoid over heating in the top load LowePro.

Steve
 
Marc

If your dealer is able to give you all information , you do not find in the manuals , then you are a very lucky man , and you have a very experienced dealer .

But that situation is not normal , at least not for Germany .
It can not be the dealers job , to supply you with information you don't find in the manuals . It is HASSELBLAD's job to give the customer all information required for a product , they sold to you . And there is such an easy way today to do that in form of upgrades of manuals , which you can download . There should be no excuse by HASSELBLAD here , but action , as they do know , that some of their manauls are just poor .

Concerning the "TOY" battery , I had a call with HASSELBLAD Germany today .
They know , that the info in the manuals is poor , but have no influence to it .

The "TOY" battery is charged whenever the CFV BACK is powered on . I think , LUTZ gave us this info earlier in this thread .
The HASSELBLAD service people can not tell how long the CFV BACK must be powered on to fully charge the "TOY" battery , and if it is full , how long this charge will keep the date/time setting running .
So , what I will do in future , whenever I power on the CFV BACK , I will check the "TOY" first and set if required .

Regards Jürgen
 
It should also be remembered that how friendly and helpful a dealer is often depends on how much money you spend in his/her shop.
Customers who return with spending money every time a new digital thingy is released (or even only announced) are much more welcome than customers who can scrape together enough cash to buy an expensive item once every ten years.

It is indeed the manufacturer's responsibility to provide all customers with all the necessary information peculiar to their product(s).

I do think it a poor excuse too, Jürgen, to say they - i.e. Hasselblad Germany, part of the Hasselblad company - have no influence on things.
Of course they have!
All they have to do is send the message up the line, all the way to the top in Denmark if necessary.
After all: 'Who do they think they are'?
wink.gif
 
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