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Hasselblad CFV Digital Back CONTINUED
- Thread starter uaiomex
- Start date
frozen_time
Member
Jürgen thank you - i am going to give it a try on monday and report then what happened.
Regards Andy
Regards Andy
frozen_time
Member
I had a call with Mr. Luttkus today - it seems that it is a defective behavior of my back. He is trying to get a RMEA? number from denmark - then i am supposed to send it in..... Well not a too good start for me and HB. 
I don't hope for continued trouble like Jürgen had with it.
To make matter worse i saw yesterday that my film back is not working correct either - the film transportation does not work reliable.
Andy
I don't hope for continued trouble like Jürgen had with it. To make matter worse i saw yesterday that my film back is not working correct either - the film transportation does not work reliable.
Andy
frozen_time
Member
Hi Robert,
no - won't have a loaner back for this time. I did ask but HB told me that this is only possible in the case when i bought the here already discussed expanded warranty..... I looks like i am sending it in by the next week. I did think a long time whether sending it in for that 'minor' malfunction because it is working great otherwise. But in the end i decided that i bought a far more expensive piece of gear even compared to my D2X - and i can therefore fully expect that it is working as intended and i do like it to work as intended.
Andy
no - won't have a loaner back for this time. I did ask but HB told me that this is only possible in the case when i bought the here already discussed expanded warranty..... I looks like i am sending it in by the next week. I did think a long time whether sending it in for that 'minor' malfunction because it is working great otherwise. But in the end i decided that i bought a far more expensive piece of gear even compared to my D2X - and i can therefore fully expect that it is working as intended and i do like it to work as intended.
Andy
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Andy
An expanded warrenty contract does not include a HOT SWAP . For that , you have to pay extra .
Please have a look here :
<center><table border=1><tr><td>
HotSwap_Garanie-Okt. 07.pdf (72.1 k)</td></tr></table></center>
Offering you a swap without payment would be very generous but also very unusual .
With all the trouble I had to go through , I was never offered a swap .
Jürgen
An expanded warrenty contract does not include a HOT SWAP . For that , you have to pay extra .
Please have a look here :
<center><table border=1><tr><td>
HotSwap_Garanie-Okt. 07.pdf (72.1 k)</td></tr></table></center>
Offering you a swap without payment would be very generous but also very unusual .
With all the trouble I had to go through , I was never offered a swap .
Jürgen
frozen_time
Member
Hi Jürgen,
sorry - my confusion, yes it is the explicitly HotSwap you have to buy. You first of all would have a loaner deserved - after all your trouble.... Have you now a working back? I did follow the posts for a
while but i am not too sure about that at the moment.... I got my second CZ lens yesterday - it is a CB 60 in mint condition. I will use it as standard lens on the CFV. Now i have to search for the differences of the CB and the CF/CFi/CFE lenses besides the missing focal plane shutter setting.
But here are good news also.
The film back seems to work despite of that i have written in an older post. It seems that is has been user error. *shame*on*me* I was the easy (other) operating of the Bronica backs too used.
Andy
sorry - my confusion, yes it is the explicitly HotSwap you have to buy. You first of all would have a loaner deserved - after all your trouble.... Have you now a working back? I did follow the posts for a
while but i am not too sure about that at the moment.... I got my second CZ lens yesterday - it is a CB 60 in mint condition. I will use it as standard lens on the CFV. Now i have to search for the differences of the CB and the CF/CFi/CFE lenses besides the missing focal plane shutter setting.
But here are good news also.
Andy
peter_turner
Member
Here goes from pure ignorance.:
I have just got the 503CWD and a Metz 76 MZ 5 flash.
What I cant fully understand is: which is the controlling ISO?
Camera Body or Back.
The controller on the flash with more settings for aperture and iso does not help either.
Hope others ask same question when they pick the hassie up or I am really a thick head. Oh dont agree with that .
Peter
I have just got the 503CWD and a Metz 76 MZ 5 flash.
What I cant fully understand is: which is the controlling ISO?
Camera Body or Back.
The controller on the flash with more settings for aperture and iso does not help either.
Hope others ask same question when they pick the hassie up or I am really a thick head. Oh dont agree with that .
Peter
You set the ISO on the camera's side dial... the flash meter is located in the camera body. It should communicate that data to the flash. You need to make sure the digital back is set to the same ISO by using the menu settings.
You can then control the plus or minus compensation on the flash, or by setting a higher or lower ISO on the camera's ISO dial to trick the meter.
You can then control the plus or minus compensation on the flash, or by setting a higher or lower ISO on the camera's ISO dial to trick the meter.
G'Day:
I'm not 'digitised', but I do read about that technology!
In case you haven't seen or read it, I thought you may be interested to see the Jan/Feb 2008 issue of PHOTO Techniques Magazine (see http://www.phototechmag.com/current.htm )
It has a fairly lengthy article about digital backs and an apparently academic investigation to answer the hypothetical question: "Do Digital Backs, combined with medium- or large-format cameras give you more than high-end (yet less expensive) DSLRs?"
The author, a Ph.D in Physics at UC Berkeley, also has his work in several major Art Museums. He compares Canon 1Ds MkII., H3 39MP, H2D PhaseOne P45+, and Linhof M679 PhaseOne45 combo.
I would die from 'copyright death' if I told you what the conclusion was, or if I scanned the magazine and posted pdf files.
It's worth reading, I think.
Didn't know where else to post this. If someone here thinks it should go elsewhere (CWD/CFV??), please go ahead.
Cheers,
Colin
PS Anyone know where I can get a nice Linhof? ;-)
I'm not 'digitised', but I do read about that technology!
In case you haven't seen or read it, I thought you may be interested to see the Jan/Feb 2008 issue of PHOTO Techniques Magazine (see http://www.phototechmag.com/current.htm )
It has a fairly lengthy article about digital backs and an apparently academic investigation to answer the hypothetical question: "Do Digital Backs, combined with medium- or large-format cameras give you more than high-end (yet less expensive) DSLRs?"
The author, a Ph.D in Physics at UC Berkeley, also has his work in several major Art Museums. He compares Canon 1Ds MkII., H3 39MP, H2D PhaseOne P45+, and Linhof M679 PhaseOne45 combo.
I would die from 'copyright death' if I told you what the conclusion was, or if I scanned the magazine and posted pdf files.
It's worth reading, I think.
Didn't know where else to post this. If someone here thinks it should go elsewhere (CWD/CFV??), please go ahead.
Cheers,
Colin
PS Anyone know where I can get a nice Linhof? ;-)
blowupster
Member
In the 503CWD there is a cell that see the "film" and the tell the flash to cut the light.
So you have to set iso for your digital back and to your body.
Anyway you need the hasselblad sca module to conect to your body, your lens and the flash.
BTW perhaps you have to corect the body setting because the cell is set for standad film, and the CFV sensor is perhaps darker than normal film or the opposit.
With the Hasselblad flash you recieved type of film advise because not all films are the same (darker for ex.)but with digital you just have to try and adapt. BTW you cann change manualy the value to 200 asa to have under flash exposed to make the flash natural for fill in.
So you have to set iso for your digital back and to your body.
Anyway you need the hasselblad sca module to conect to your body, your lens and the flash.
BTW perhaps you have to corect the body setting because the cell is set for standad film, and the CFV sensor is perhaps darker than normal film or the opposit.
With the Hasselblad flash you recieved type of film advise because not all films are the same (darker for ex.)but with digital you just have to try and adapt. BTW you cann change manualy the value to 200 asa to have under flash exposed to make the flash natural for fill in.
peter_turner
Member
Can understand some of that Isidor. Have a Sca 390 adaptor.
From what you have said :
Set both Body and ~~CFV to same iso. (adjusting the CFV to compensate for the ifference of film to digital.
Iso on CFV can be set higher say 200 asa leaving body at 50 asa in order to fool flash where fill in is needed.
Hope I got that right.
Trouble with some instruction manuals they are not too good when many combination of factors.
Which still leaves me with the question;
What part does the Iso and aperture settings on the metz control unit actually play.?
Thanks Peter
From what you have said :
Set both Body and ~~CFV to same iso. (adjusting the CFV to compensate for the ifference of film to digital.
Iso on CFV can be set higher say 200 asa leaving body at 50 asa in order to fool flash where fill in is needed.
Hope I got that right.
Trouble with some instruction manuals they are not too good when many combination of factors.
Which still leaves me with the question;
What part does the Iso and aperture settings on the metz control unit actually play.?
Thanks Peter
polypal
Active Member
Peter,
If you want to use flash to fill in you set the back at a lower speed than the flash control on the camera i.e.
Back at 200 ASA camera at 400 or higher value.
You fool the flash by letting it know you use a faster film or higher
ASA setting at the back than is actually used.
The flash will reduce its output accordingly.
When using the Metz unit in OTF (TTL) mode the settings on the Metz do not influence the output.
The controls are only used when you decide not to use OTF control.
Paul
If you want to use flash to fill in you set the back at a lower speed than the flash control on the camera i.e.
Back at 200 ASA camera at 400 or higher value.
You fool the flash by letting it know you use a faster film or higher
ASA setting at the back than is actually used.
The flash will reduce its output accordingly.
When using the Metz unit in OTF (TTL) mode the settings on the Metz do not influence the output.
The controls are only used when you decide not to use OTF control.
Paul
peter_turner
Member
Thanks Paul. I actually worked out how stupid I was on Item 3. (metz controls) just after i logged off.
I just thought of my old flash .
Too used to using the SB 800. in BL mode all the time. Dont have to do much.
Now to work.
Peter
I just thought of my old flash .
Too used to using the SB 800. in BL mode all the time. Dont have to do much.
Now to work.
Peter
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Hello to all
My MICROTEK ATRIXSCAN F1 has arrived and I have installed that scanner yesterday .
And here we have an other learning curve , not as steep as with the CFV .
The SilverFast Ai Studio scanner software is quite comfortable and also the IT8 color calibration , despite , that the color target is a bit of lousy small .
My first testscans show a great quality and are much better , than the results with my older 1800F . That is what I expected.
The scanner is not a ch&ion in running world records for 100m . The initialize process is rather time consuming and therefore the F1 is not for those of you , who have to do a lot of scanning .
But , as far as I can see up to now , a very good machine for MF and LF .
I have done some scans from 4x5 KODAK EKTACHROME EPN film and the results are just great .
If anyone else will get this scanner , I am very much interested in hearing your impressions .
Jürgen
My MICROTEK ATRIXSCAN F1 has arrived and I have installed that scanner yesterday .
And here we have an other learning curve , not as steep as with the CFV .
The SilverFast Ai Studio scanner software is quite comfortable and also the IT8 color calibration , despite , that the color target is a bit of lousy small .
My first testscans show a great quality and are much better , than the results with my older 1800F . That is what I expected.
The scanner is not a ch&ion in running world records for 100m . The initialize process is rather time consuming and therefore the F1 is not for those of you , who have to do a lot of scanning .
But , as far as I can see up to now , a very good machine for MF and LF .
I have done some scans from 4x5 KODAK EKTACHROME EPN film and the results are just great .
If anyone else will get this scanner , I am very much interested in hearing your impressions .
Jürgen
I don't have anything to add, but just wanted to share this image, because it is (in larger size anyway) just so damn sharp and nearly perfect. Taken with the CWD, 50mm CFi and polar filter. I still have a lot to learn when using the CWD, but when I DO get it right, the result is just amazing. No editing has been done to this photo.
frozen_time
Member
@Marcus: i would like to have that 50 CFi... The picture is great.
I recently got myself the 120 mm Macro Planar - i am waiting for the delivery a the moment. I intend to use it as portrait lens.... I am really looking forward to it.
By the way - my CFV back is back from its Denmark vacation (aka repair) - finally! I got it from the post today. I am reporting whether it is working now as expected. The accompanying paper told that the CPU PCB was swapped. Sounds like new guts to me....
Best wishes Andy
The picture is great. I recently got myself the 120 mm Macro Planar - i am waiting for the delivery a the moment. I intend to use it as portrait lens.... I am really looking forward to it.
By the way - my CFV back is back from its Denmark vacation (aka repair) - finally! I got it from the post today. I am reporting whether it is working now as expected. The accompanying paper told that the CPU PCB was swapped. Sounds like new guts to me....
Best wishes Andy
polypal
Active Member
Andy,
I am glad Hasselblad returned your back in about two weeks.
It seems their turn around time has improved considerably.
Enjoy the 120 Makro Planar. It may need a softar when used as a portrait lens.
Jürgen,
Considering the speed of your new scanner the "F1" in its name seems misleading.
Nevertheless I am sure you will have fun.
I am glad Hasselblad returned your back in about two weeks.
It seems their turn around time has improved considerably.
Enjoy the 120 Makro Planar. It may need a softar when used as a portrait lens.
Jürgen,
Considering the speed of your new scanner the "F1" in its name seems misleading.
Nevertheless I am sure you will have fun.
frozen_time
Member
> Thanks Paul,
but the back did need 5 weeks.......thats not fast at all. I did thinka about getting a softar - but i am going to try the planar without first and then i will see.
Greetings Andy
>
but the back did need 5 weeks.......thats not fast at all. I did thinka about getting a softar - but i am going to try the planar without first and then i will see.
Greetings Andy
>