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Hasselblad NC-2

eBay international

Not all items offered at eBay are displayed in all countries.
That is why it pays to look at eBay.fr , ebay.com etc.

Ebay .Com offers more pages with hasselblad items than any other country.
Only a minority of these items will show when searching ebay.de
 
wbulte said:
What would you need a British eBay account for? eBay accounts work world-wide, I regularly work on eBay.de and eBay.co.uk, as well as eBay.com

The only trick is to make sure the seller accepts foreign bidders/is willing to ship to you. Never had problems with that, just ask politely if needed.
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Sure, but Paul lives in Germany, but his eBay account said he was resident in the U.K. I just wondered...
 
CarstenW said:
Thanks, that's very helpful. As you know, I am planning the purchase of a 2000FCW, and have vague memories of difficult focusing with a 500C. I kinda wanted a second way of working than the WLF with the loupe, and saw these on eBay. Do you know what a CLA costs?
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Carsten,

If you haven't got your camera yet, and have doubts about focussing with the WLF, don't give up on it. I find the WLF to be very good and use it all the time. I'd also like a prism but a 503CW, with a 40mm Distagon and a CFV back is already breaking my shoulder. The WLF is light and folds away. I found that the best screen for me was an AccuMatte with only ground glass in the centre, I find split image screens are a nuisance and microprisms even worse.
 
The left//right reversal is something most users will get under control in a short time.
The only reason not to use a WLF is when you are in an area with high light levels that make looking at the screen difficult.

In those circumstances a prism can be quite helpful.
 
Pete_G said:
If you haven't got your camera yet, and have doubts about focussing with the WLF, don't give up on it. I find the WLF to be very good and use it all the time. I'd also like a prism but a 503CW, with a 40mm Distagon and a CFV back is already breaking my shoulder. The WLF is light and folds away. I found that the best screen for me was an AccuMatte with only ground glass in the centre, I find split image screens are a nuisance and microprisms even worse.
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I also much prefer ground glass to prisms and splits, and was planning to invest in a Maxwell screen, which is meant to be a bit easier to focus than the Acute Matte D, due to better contrast (unless the camera I end up with already has an Acute Matte or Acute Matte D, in which case I will try it first).

I do love the WLF, but my experience with the 500C has left me uncertain that it is enough in all cases. The 45 degree finder also helps to shoot with the camera a bit higher, on a tripod. Anyway, the NC-2 is not that expensive. I missed one the other day for 29 Euro, with a lot of paint missing but otherwise in really good shape (I missed it because Photoshop was stealing focus for every image in a 10-image HDR #$@%!@#$). For a bit more (I see one for 40 Euro, with shipping also 40), I can get one in really good shape. For 120, I can buy Paul's in perfect shape :) Not a lot of money, so I am not afraid of not using it so often.

My intent is to walk around with the 2000+110/2 and shoot Tri-X, with the WLF. When I am shooting more static subjects, I would bring the tripod and the prism, and use Efke 25.
 
Screens

Screens are a very personal thing.
I can agree with those who do not like anything that distracts them from the image so microprisms are out.

I do like a split though. It does not bother me at all.
The split is small and in most instances it shows part of the picture.
That makes the 42217 my favourite screen: grid and split.
Only crosshairs will mean the 42204 screen. Not bad either.

The difference between early Acute Matte screens and the later Acute Matte "D" lies in the possibility to focus on brightly lit subjects.
This has been improved with the later "D" screens.

For a number of reasons I would stick with Hasselblad screens and avoid screens from other makers.
 
Yes, screens are personal. I've lost the use of my favourite ground glass one because of the CFV screen, but I'm going to "modify" my old screen to show CFV framelines. The plan is to find some VERY thin clear acetate, cut it to size and draw the CFV lines on it with Pentel, then slide the acetate over the top of the screen. The alternative would be to use a modified "sticky" screen protector.
 
I use one on my 500CM and it is a HUGE improvement over the WLF. It is brighter and makes improves off tripod camera handling a hundred fold. And the best part is the image is not reversed left to right!
 
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