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CFV II a dinosaur?

Hello Jürgen,

The Super Wide with CFV back looks like they were made for each other.
The not only look good, they are a perfect match for high IQ.

BTW how did you drill the little hole in the CFV back?
The hole is necessary to accomodate the pin coming out of the back of the Super Wide.


Paul
 
Peter
My experience is as follows : Using my 203FE + CFV , I set the meter for example to ISO50 , while I set the CFV to ISO100 . That makes one fstop and I carefully watch the histogram to be covered for at least 80% to the right side .
Huh, that mean the return of the Kodak(chome) 25 asa ?
(OK ony K 64 was avaible for 120 !)

One year ago I began a amasing time when I dicided to put the new TMY 400 film in my Hasselblad-V: I use it at 1600 asa and used my FE 110mm 2.0 So a new world for 6x6 photography.
 
Hello Jürgen,

The Super Wide with CFV back looks like they were made for each other.
The not only look good, they are a perfect match for high IQ.

BTW how did you drill the little hole in the CFV back?
The hole is necessary to accomodate the pin coming out of the back of the Super Wide.


Paul


Paul

I will drill the hole , when the extended warranty for the CFV has expired , which will be at the end of 2009 .
Hopefully , I will not drill the hole right into the sensor .

Jürgen
 
question to someone with more experience:

I am right to think that a CFV when croped to 6:4 (36mmx24mm) format gives very similar (if not the same image quality) as using a high end -full frame- digital 35mm slr? like canon 1dsmk3 nikon d3x and sony alpha 900? - with best in class lenses of course-

If the sony a900 can be sold for under £1600 why can't we get a CFV or similar for the under £2000? brand new! no more refurbished or second hand stuff! no matter what make!
 
As for IQ: forget the size of the sensor and the pixel count.

As for the price: As soon as Hasselblad can count on the same volume Sony or other 35 mm based DSLRs have the price will drop too.

Any idea how many CFV DBs are sold now?
Any idea about the volume Sony, Canon etc. sell?
 
What finally convinced me to take the plunge (503CWD-II) was not so much the merits of the CFV/II back itself as the ability to use it with my growing collection of V-system lenses....and most of all, the incredible deal when Hasselblad packaged it with the 40mm IF lens instead of the 80mm lens...for the same price. Personally, I wasn't prepared to spend $10k for the CFV-II alone...but $13k for a 503CW, the CFV-II and the 40 IF.....that was a good deal, in my eyes anyways.

Now I just need to get out and use it more often....

Gary
Alaska
 
Now I just need to get out and use it more often....

Gary
Alaska

I wonder how the batteries go in the cold of Alaska.

My 205FCC once ground to a halt during a freezing morning in Chicago.

Not a problem I have deal with here in Thailand. Here it is condensation on lenses, sensors and mirrors when going from A/C to outside. Oh, and fungus growth on glass surfaces...
 
What finally convinced me to take the plunge (503CWD-II) was not so much the merits of the CFV/II back itself as the ability to use it with my growing collection of V-system lenses....and most of all, the incredible deal when Hasselblad packaged it with the 40mm IF lens instead of the 80mm lens...for the same price. Personally, I wasn't prepared to spend $10k for the CFV-II alone...but $13k for a 503CW, the CFV-II and the 40 IF.....that was a good deal, in my eyes anyways.

Now I just need to get out and use it more often....

Gary
Alaska
And now, you can sell 40IF and CFV separatly on second hand, and make money.
 
I want to corroborate what jotloob has stated. I too "overexpose" my images, getting as much of the histogram as possible on the right side without clipping (other than specular highlights). Just the opposite of what us oldtime "slide shooters" of yesterday did.

Not that there was any doubt but today I went out and proved that your recommendation is right.

On a tripod, with a "sunny 16" scene, I set the camera to 100 ASA and the CFV to 50 ASA. Aperture=5.6 The camera's spot meter recommended a shutter speed of 750 or 500, depending where I pointed it. I then shot a series of images, slowing the shutter-speed with every image. Shutter speed from 1/750s down to 1/125s.

Studying the results in Phocus, the shot at 1/180s gave the best dynamic range and after tweaking the exposure about 1/2 a stop down, gave me a bright, sharp image with detail in the highlights and shadows. According to the camera this shot was about 3 stops overexposed. The histogram was as you described - almost all the way to the right but not quite.

I have attached one of the images here. (although in the compressed format, it is not as punchy as the full 95 Mb TIF file and the colors are quite desaturated)

Regards
Peter
 

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Not that there was any doubt but today I went out and proved that your recommendation is right.

On a tripod, with a "sunny 16" scene, I set the camera to 100 ASA and the CFV to 50 ASA. Regards
Peter


Peter - the jpeg looks fantastic on my monitor at work. Crisp, color balanced, and lots of detail.

One point I'd like to bring to your attention -
Assuming that your noted specs were right, you actually began your process "backwards," but arrived at the right point.
Your "meter" should be set LOWER than your CFV, not vice versa as you stated. You stated you began with the meter @ 100 and the CFV @ 50. If this is not just an error in your posting, then you arrived effectively @ an EI of 12, which would have equated to only a TWO-stop over-exposure on your CFV. (Which is often the case).
Seldom would one ever have to go 3 stops.
If you choose to set the CFV @ 50, then I'd set the meter no higher than EI 25 for your initial trial exposure, and go from there.
Nonetheless, all turned out well.
Michael H. Cothran
 
Hello Jürgen,

The Super Wide with CFV back looks like they were made for each other.
The not only look good, they are a perfect match for high IQ.

BTW how did you drill the little hole in the CFV back?
The hole is necessary to accomodate the pin coming out of the back of the Super Wide.


Paul

Mmm, just use a grinder and remove the pin..

Wilko
 
And now, you can sell 40IF and CFV separatly on second hand, and make money.

That would be a first for me. I've never made money on anything I've sold. It's just a question of whether I lose a little or a lot....which is why I hate selling any of my camera gear. Nope, the 503CWD is most likely going to be around for quite awhile....a good thing too. :)

Gary
Alaska
 
I wonder how the batteries go in the cold of Alaska.

Not sure, I haven't had it out in temps below about 40F yet. I have had my DSLRs out when it was 15-20F, no problems. I'm taking a 2 day photo workshop this weekend (outdoors, likely to be windy and 20-30F). Thinking about using the 503CWD for one of those days....so I may have some direct experience soon. Tidal mud flats, ice flows and mountains...classic Alaskan scenery. Could be treacherous footing however....I'd REALLY hate to slip and drop the Hasselblad. I wouldn't feel QUITE as bad if I dropped the Canon (unless it was the 1V). :)

Gary
Alaska
 
Your "meter" should be set LOWER than your CFV, not vice versa as you stated.

You know Michael, after 30 years of photography, I can still get confused when talking about the ups and downs of exposure settings. With the camera in the hand, instinct tells me where to set those dials. But ask me to describe it and I confuse myself.

So, yesterday, I did confuse myself and had my ASA settings arse-about-face. Hence the need to crank three stops before the histogram was over to the right. Silly me.

Anyway, with your kind guidance, I went out this morning and nailed it. Over the years, I became used the zone system with the 205FCC's inbuilt spot zone metering system. So I wanted an ASA setting that would let me use the zone system with the same relative settings that I have for the last 10 years.

CFV set to 100 ASA
205FCC's internal spot meter set to 25 ASA.

Now, when I use the spot zone metering as I used to, (sky on 6, white clouds on 8, light grass on 5, dark leaves on 3 or 4, etc), I get a histogram that leans towards the right-hand side, without losing the highlights. A bracket shot 1/2 stop under and 1/2 stop over gives me a choice of three very nicely exposed images to play with in Phocus.

Thanks for the help.

Regards
Peter
 
Not sure, I haven't had it out in temps below about 40F yet. I have had my DSLRs out when it was 15-20F, no problems. I'm taking a 2 day photo workshop this weekend (outdoors, likely to be windy and 20-30F). Thinking about using the 503CWD for one of those days....so I may have some direct experience soon. Tidal mud flats, ice flows and mountains...classic Alaskan scenery. Could be treacherous footing however....I'd REALLY hate to slip and drop the Hasselblad. I wouldn't feel QUITE as bad if I dropped the Canon (unless it was the 1V). :)
Gary
Alaska

Gary

The specs say , the CFV is working from 0ºC to +40ºC .
I had mine out already at -5ºC for a longer time with no trouble .
We have so much snow here , I can hardly go to interesting places .
Nothing , but snow , since the 15th of November last year .

Good luck for your workshop and take care .

Regards Jürgen
 
I'm taking a 2 day photo workshop this weekend (outdoors, likely to be windy and 20-30F). Thinking about using the 503CWD for one of those days....so I may have some direct experience soon.
Gary
Alaska

You might need to have two sets of batteries. Keep one set warm in an inner pocket and swap them over if the cold causes the on-camera set to fail.

Regards
Peter
 
Peter

All my answers to your questions are YES .
I came to these answers also , just by trying out .
And I found , it is valid for my workflow , that , if the vertical bars reach up to 80% , I get the most image information , although lower and higher exposures still result i a "green light good exposure"
I do not claim , that my kind of work is perfect .
So , who ever knows it better , please post it here .

Marc

Sorry , I have to contradict you here .
Seriously .
The CFV is no dino at all and also no throwback .
The CFV is a logical , fantastic and necessary supplement for the V-SYSTEM . And it also looks good .
The V-SYSTEM is the most successful MF-SYSTEM which has ever been built and it is not dead .
It is often copied and has never ever been reached in design , compatibility and quality . It has reached a worldwide reputation , without that , the H-SYSTEM would be a "nothing" .
Who would buy an H-SYSTEM , if it would not carry the name HASSELBLAD ? ? ?

But , before the tears run down your cheek now , and as you know , it is true what I said about the wonderful V-SYSTEM , don't take things too serious . :) . I have nothing against you , the opposite is true . Believe me .
And I have a little goody for you here .

View attachment 1018

A SW camera from 1957 with a CFV DIGITAL back from 2007 .
50 years difference in age , and it works . I have tried it out .

It is true , a digital back , which needs a sync cable is not a real progress , but might be a necessity .
But at the time , that beautiful SW was built , nobody even knew , what a digital back is .
Long live the fantastic V-SYSTEM .

BTW , the image was taken with a LUMIX G1 and KONICA M-HEXANON 2/50 lens .

Best regards Jürgen

I think you did not get my tounge in cheek humor ... basically I said the same thing you did ... but sort of mocking the idea that any of this stuff is obsolete.

Or maybe I didn't get your humor ... which is probably more likely.
 
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