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#52051 Meter Prism Finder Inst Book

Daniel Unkefer

Daniel Unkefer

Member
Hello,

Does anyone have a copy of the Meter Prism Finder #52051 Instruction book, that they could scan and put up here? I have two of the prisms (like them very much) but I have a few questions. I use original focusing screens #42188, #42242, #42250, #42269, #42285, and #42200. Do I need to adjust the exposure-compensation switch, when I am reading through any of these? They are all the original screens, same vintage as the prism itself, so I assume no other problems.

The microprism screens seem darker around the outer field (to my eye) so that is why I am wondering if any adjustment is required for accurate readings. BTW I use the CRIS adapter with the required silver watch batteries, and both meters still are quite accurate, with the standard (center cross) screens. I just wonder about the others. Any experiences with those?
Thanks! -Dan
 
Paul,
Thank you for sending me the PDF file copy of the instructions for the meter prism. Here is the answer to my question:

Focusing Screens
The focusing screens occasionally call for a certain amount of compensation using the adjustment disc (K3). Even here, the normal lens variation of +- 1/2 f/stop may reinforce or cancel out inaccuracy. INDIVIDUAL TESTING IS REQUIRED.

Tolerances
Incorrect exposures, despite a correct measuring technique, may be due to a number of causes. In view of the normal tolerances in film and camera components, every photographer should adjust his exposure meter to suit his own equipment. Discrepencies may cancel out or reinforce one another. Therefore, individual testing is essential in order to obtain accurate exposure.

BTW I have found that the rubber eyecup for the Kiev88 nonmeter prism finder fits absolutely -perfectly- the #52051 Meter Prism as well as the straight NC-2 prisms. I have one of these Kiev88 eyecups on each of my Blad prisms. I would highly reccomend them as an improvement over the original eyecups, which are often in bad shape.
 
Hello Daniel,

If you promise not to tell anybody I happen to have manuals for most Hasselblad items used for the V series starting with the 1600F.


FUC members get a welcome present that often holds a good forgery of original sales brochure and or a camera manual.

This older prism needs some personal calibration.
Besides that it also reacts quite slowly on changing light situations.
I have one but prefer a later one that is faster and offers a wider measuring range as well.


Paul
 
I have one of these "old and ugly" prisms as well .
I do not know if it still works or not . It just sits here , unattended .

I like to have working vintage cameras , but some accessories , if no more parts are available , just shoud be replaced by newer gear .

Jürgen
 
My two prisms work very well, and are quite accurate to use. I prefer them to the modern, they were designed for my 500CM and 500ELM. They are a good match to my cameras, and easy to use. And not any more ugly than any other Blad prisms, IMO. :)
 
polypal said:
"Beauty often lies in the eyes of the beholder"
Click to expand...

I don't think any of my stuff is beautiful. My Hasselblad system is an awesome collection of tools, that do their jobs very well. I appreciate it's precision and functionality, and I get a great joy from using it. The older stuff I'm interested is not expensive now, yet works great for me. That is sufficent for my needs. None of my stuff sits on a collection shelf.

As I age I am sure I will acquire some of the newer "toys". :)
 
Finders are a personal matter and also depend on the circumstances.
In areas with high light levels a WLF is not the best option.
 
any chance I could get a copy of that manual?
what does the button on the top behind the on/off switch do?

Also, is there a diopter on it? I focus and focus but it still is blurry. when i screwed the eyepiece off, the image looked fine (but not magnified) but with it on it's impossible. I don't wear glasses and can focus fine with the wlf.
Thanks for the help
 
Marc Durand said:
any chance I could get a copy of that manual?
what does the button on the top behind the on/off switch do?

Also, is there a diopter on it? I focus and focus but it still is blurry. when i screwed the eyepiece off, the image looked fine (but not magnified) but with it on it's impossible. I don't wear glasses and can focus fine with the wlf.
Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

The button on top is for checking battery status if my memory don't fail me.
 
Hello Marc,


Welcome at hasselbladinfo forum.
Chances are there is a correction lens fitted to your prism.
Not easy to check because these correction lenses are not marked.
An optician may be able to help you by checking the lens.

There is an instrution leaflet for this prism/meter in my collection.
I will try to find that and scan it for you.


Paul
Forum moderator
 
Marc Durand said:
any chance I could get a copy of that manual?
what does the button on the top behind the on/off switch do?

Also, is there a diopter on it? I focus and focus but it still is blurry. when i screwed the eyepiece off, the image looked fine (but not magnified) but with it on it's impossible. I don't wear glasses and can focus fine with the wlf.
Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

Hi Marc,
Paul sent me a copy of the PDF, I printed it out for myself, but I didn't save it. Sounds like you have an accessory diopter on your prism, simply remove it if it dosen't work for your eyes.

Regarding the Button, from the instructions:

"Press the battery check button (B) and keep it pressed for one second AT THE MOST. The needle should then shift toward lower values on the scale, although by no more than 1/3 of a light value. Needle movement greater than that indicates that the battery is exhausted and should be replaced."
 
CDS users manual pdf

Thanks for reminding me of the pdf I had of the manual.
The file can not be uploaded I will send it directly to Marc.


Gr,
Paul
 
Well, after testing it more this morning I found that I could see fine outdoors in bright sunlight (which is great since that's the only time I'd use it I think)
I had been trying it out indoors at night. I had pulled off the eyepiece and found that I could see fine through it.
Thanks for all the help and thanks alot for the manual!
 
polypal said:
Thanks for reminding me of the pdf I had of the manual.
The file can not be uploaded I will send it directly to Marc.

Gr,
Paul
Click to expand...

Maybe it is time to equip the forum with a 'library' to store relevant documentation like this?

Wilko
 
An excellent idea!
If I only knew a storage specialist to set up a suitable facility.

This prism pdf of only two A4 pages takes 3 Mb storage space.
My collection of manuals would take much more to store.


Paul
 
polypal said:
An excellent idea!
If I only knew a storage specialist to set up a suitable facility.

This prism pdf of only two A4 pages takes 3 Mb storage space.
My collection of manuals would take much more to store.

Paul
Click to expand...

Around EUR 80 gets you a 1.5TB (that is 1500GB or 1,500,000 MB) USB disk drive ;-)

Wilko
 
Cleaning inside my #52051 Meter Prisms

I have two of these, use them all the time. Both give matching readings, and I like the fact they are the same vintage as my 500C/Ms and 500EL/Ms. I use the CRIS adapters in both of these, and today (after six months) the batteries need changing. About two stops registered when I push the little black button, it should read no more than 1/3 EV change, with fresh batteries. I put in fresh 386 watch batteries, meters now read perfectly, confirmed with battery check and Honeywell Spot Meter. And readings are still identical.

Both prisms were lightly dusty inside. Based on my good luck recently cleaning out my Leitz Visoflex II and III prisms, I decided to open these up, and clean them out.

1. Carefully remove the nine screws on the bottom. Gently remove the cover plate, don't bump it. Remove the two small ball bearings (I put them inside the metal plate, so I didn't lose them).

2. Remove the cover glass, I pried it up carefully with small screwdriver. Clean the glass and make it dust free, remove any interior smudge. I used a clean cotton cloth, breathed onto the glass, and carefully cleaned it.

3. -Gently- blow any dust off the bottom of the condenser lens, I again used the cotton cloth, and my breath. DON'T EVEN TOUCH THE NEEDLE. I turned the meter on, so I could clean all corners of the condenser.

4. Gently blowing with breath, make sure -all- dust is gone, and reassemble, just exactly the reverse of the above process.

Quite easy to do, I went very slowly, and it only took me a half hour to do the complete job. Both Prisms are now as clean to look through, as when they were new :)
 
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