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Which V system?

T

thinkfloyd

New Member
Hi, I'm new here and looking to purchase my first Hassy. I've been eyeing a 500c/m, reading all the good things about it. But aside from this, what other models are suitable for a newbie like me? I'd like for it to be compatible with digital backs in the future (I plan to get one when prices fall), without the need, or at least minimal, add-ons or modifications. Thanks!
 
Welcome Thinkfloyd at hasselblad info forum.

Steve has pointed you in the right direction to find information about bodies.

Keep in mind it is the lenses that deliver quality images.
Any Carl Zeiss lens designed for Hasselblad gives excellent results.
If budget allows try to find lenses from the CF series.
They are easier to handle and less demanding as far as maintenance is concerned.


Paul
Forum moderator.
 
thinkfloyd said:
How about the earlier models? Is the 500c ok? I've seen these go for much cheaper...any caveats with the 500c?
Click to expand...

I am not the expert here but I wouldn't buy anything older than a 500 C/M. One reason is age. Servicing and repairs on these cameras isn't cheap and buying a body for a few hundred dollar cheaper may be "false" economy.

Perhaps a more important reason for a C/M or later body is the ability to change the focusing screen. The latest screens are "brighter" then the older ones and anything that can help with accurate focusing is very important, IMO.

Steve
 
500C 1957-1970
500C/M 1970-1994

Later cameras are more expensive.
Keep in mind many Hasselblad cameras were often used professionaly.
Pro's did not blink an eye to shoot 10-20 rolls a day.
Those cameras show much wear that may lead to problems and expensive repairs.
The 500C is not only older it does not allow the user to change the focusing screen.
Older screens are not very clear against later Acute Matte screens suitable for the 500C/M that make focusing a lot easier.

If your budget allows go for a 500C/M from the later series.
That body has a stainless steel bottom plate.
It incorporates the hooks to hold the film back:



_IGP1352-2.jpg

Left early, right later model 500C/M


Paul
 

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Older screens are not very clear against later Acute Matte screens suitable for the 500C/M that make focusing a lot easier.
********
Are the latest Acute Matte D screens not suitable for the 500C/M? I updated the screen in my ELM with a 42215 and it made a big difference in ability to focus quickly and accurately.

I was going to mention as part of total costs, upgrading an older body with the latest screen (used) will add ~$250 USD.

Steve
 
Buying a body that has an Acute Matte is the cheapest way to get one.
Early AM screens (non D) go around 75 USD when bought seperately..

Evilbay may be a source for low cost screens but not for a beginner.
Fat chance he or she will end up with an old screen for AM money.


The difference between AM and later AM "D" is the ability to focus on bright or brightly lit subjects.
D screens do not saturate like early AM's.
Nothing dramatic just an improvement for that particular use.

Any camera that offers the facility to change screens by the user takes AM as well as AM D screens.


Paul
 
Any camera that offers the facility to change screens by the user takes AM as well as AM D screens.
********
Thanks...I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some arcane fact about the screens. Is there an Acute-Matte with microprism/split or is that only the D?

Steve
 
The selection of AM screens is quite large:

Leaving out special versions for viewfinders and 200 series cameras the
AM non D consist of the 42165 with cross hairs and th 42170 screen with grid and split.

AM "D" versions have 42204 for cross hairs, 42215 for split with microprisms and 42217 for grid and split again not mentioning the versions for 200 series cameras and certain viewers.



Paul
 
Steve

There is an ACUTE MATTE focusing screen with split image finder
(not acute matte D) . Its the P/N 42170 .
It was replaced by the acute matte D P/N 42217 in either 1996 or 1997 .

I have replaced all my screens by acute matte D screens .
I know , it is expensive , but it is worth it .
I just had to replace two screens , as the others of my working horses were already equipped with a D version .
It is much easier focussing .

Jürgen
 
Its the P/N 42170 .
******
Is that the screen with the grid?

"I have replaced all my screens by acute matte D screens .
*******
I have also changed to "D" screens. Since these screens sell for >$250 used, that potentially is a "hidden" cost when considering the difference in price for a used body. Was/is the 42215 the "standard" screen supplied with the 503CW? (The devil is in the details :>)
 
Steve

42215 is the ACUTE MATTE D microprism/split image screen .
42217 is the ACUTE MATTE D split image grid . This one updated 42170 , which was the ACUTE MATTE split image grid .

Jürgen
 
If cross hairs is standard the new Acute Matte D with cross hairs is 42204.
The 42215 is often supplied with new bodies though.


Paul
 
ahhh... so that's why I've seen some sellers mention specifically that their bodies already include Accumatte screens. Will be on the lookout for that. Thanks guys.

@Polypal: Thanks for describing the difference between early and later 500cm models. Now I tend to look at the bottom of the cameras :) So a 500cm (later model) is a good starting point for me? UNderstand that this will be a huge investment for me, so what I get will probably last me my whole life... what about digital backs? I don't plan to get one now, maybe in a couple of years when the price drops even further. What's the cheapest, most reliable? I've been reading about the CFV(?), I hope it drops to the sub-$1000 price point in two years :D
 
The advice to go for the later 500C/M body is based on optimum quality within a budget.
A later body does not give better images but should be less likely to give problems and bills to get it serviced.

The 500C/M is a real workhorse. A good one will last you quite a long time.
Some users have cameras from the early days of Hasselblad that are still going strong.
Proper service is the magic word. That ensures good performance and reliability.
Keep in mind these are mechanical cameras that may need fresh lubricants and other care.
When? That is hard to tell. A camera does not have an odometer.

In the mean time start thinking about lenses.
Standard is the 80 mm Planar, the most used wide angle is the 50 mm Distagon.
Short tele often used for portraits is the 150 Sonnar.

A good film back is the A12.
For film backs age and the amount of use are even more important because film backs wear faster than bodies.

Digital backs are not very likely to drop to the 1000 USD range unless you are prepared to use a trailer for a 4 MP early Leaf back.
Those backs are huge they weigh a ton and are only suitable for studio.
Better start with film and take it from there.


Paul
 
Yep, digital backs are not really within my sights in the near future... only when they drop further in price (the nice portable ones with a view screen :) )... Ok then, I will be on the lookout for a nice 500cm or later body. As for lenses, I was planning on the 80 of course, for wide a 50 or 60 (what's the equivalent of the 50 and 60 on 35mm cameras?), and the 120 macro for portraits and well, macro... and I have read (somewhere here) that it's better to get the A12 backs, so that's a given as well... one other thing, I plan to use a cheap kiev metered prism til I can afford a proper Hassy one, is this a good idea?
 
You are on the right track for most of the things you need.
The Kiev prism is excellent to look through but forget about the metering part.
If the metering system works at all the readings it gives are useless.

If you think about using a prism try to get the Hasselblad NC2 or its Kiev counterpart.
That prism gives high magnification. Kiev prisms can still be found new.
They go for about 75 USD. They are quite good.


NC2 rebuilt.jpg

Hasselblad NC2 prism
The Kiev version is a carbon copy.
 

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How can you tell if you have a Acute Matte sceen? I was told by the seller that my 500c/m has one but I'd like to be sure.
 
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