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SWCM or SWCM CF Version

Hi all

I'm seriously considering adding one of the above to my kit. I'd prefer the 903 or 905 but the point is I don't want to spend a fortune on this camera. I'd prefer the SWC/M CF Version to the earlier SWC/M with the C type lens, but again the earlier model tends to be that much less expensive.

The obvious difference between the SWC/M and the SWC/M CF Version is the change to the CF lens and the different filter size but can any kind folk here point out other differences. For instance, are the C type lens shutter speeds and apertures coupled and are there aperture half stops? Any info to help me make my choice would be gratefully received.

TIA, Keith
 
Keith,
the C-type lens has - like any other C-lens - coupled shutter speed and aperture rings and half-stop apertures. Do not expect any difference in picture quality.

I myself have an earlier SWC with T*-coated C-lens. It does not have the distance pieces between camera body and viewfinder and between camera body and tripod plate which makes it more compact (but not usable for Polaroid backs which was the reason for the mofification).

There have been reports of shutter blades scratching inner lens element surfaces, I do not exactly recall when this was a problem (I think early Biogon CF-lenses) but you better check that when buying (searching the archives or waiting for further replies is an option as well).

Ulrik
 
Hi Ulrik

Many thanks. I've no experience with the pre CF lenses. How is the shutter speed and aperture ring un-coupled?

Keith
 
Keith,
there is a small tab that has to be pushed towards the camera body to uncouple the rings. Although I like the ergonomics of CF-lenses a little better this is no problem at all. I use lenses of both type side by side and it does not annoy me in the least.

Ulrik
 
Shutterspeed rings and aperture rings are uncoupled like any other C type lens by moving the aperture ring away from the shutterspeed ring towards the camera body.
C type lenses have the advantage that they have two arrows that indicate DOF for a chosen aperture.

The CF type SWC was available as an early model with the old style viewfinder and a later model that has the viewfinder that was also supplied with the 903 and 905.

Prices for all SWC have gone up recently.
Do not expect to find a decent camera under 1200 euro now.
Avoid the 903 offered by an American dealer that has a damaged viewfinder and damaged front and rearlens.
Converting a non "M" model into an "M" version is still possible as the kits to convert are still available.

Performance from all Super Wides is amazing.
That starts with the Supreme Wide angle followed by the Super Wide.
These early ex&les need some extra attention as the shutter needs to be cocked seperately.
Although these early models are of interest to collectors they are still great cameras to use.
I use both these early s&les with pleasure.
 
Guys, many thanks for your help, appreciated.

My instinct is to go for the SWC/M CF Version so that I can use my existing filters but much will depend on finding a good and reasonably priced ex&le. I also plan to get the focus screen adapter and RMFx finder.
 
Another advantage of the older 'C' type lens is the self-timer for the shutter.

Taras

P.S. I picked up a SWC/M with the C-type lens a couple of years back, as most of my other lenses are C-types as well.
 
Taras,

C-type lenses are great and will last forever if treated nicely and serviced occasionaly.

Keith,

The only difference between the later SWC/M with CF lens and a 903 SWC is that the SWC/M does not have the more effective palpas antireflection coating.
Now you figure out how much that coating means in a body that is only about an inch thick.
Both the focusing screen and the RMFx finder are no longer available from Hasselblad so that means a happy hunt.
 
Keith, I have only just seen this thread and have no advice to give since I don't own an SWC of any type.

However, I borrowed one for a week to do some interior house shots. The version I borrowed was the SWC T* with the older C T* lens.

Because all my V series lenses are CF with one exception of the 80mm CFE, I discovered a real benefit in the C T* Biogon. While I don't really like the C T* lenses' ergonomics, the Biogon version has a real benefit that applies to the way I often held the camera - the "tweezer" type of DOF markings.

That "tweezer" like design IMHO is wonderful when shooting with a rangefinder camera and waist level when zone focusing - it is intuitive, with just a quick glance telling you the focus range is OK.

In some ways it is a shame that Zeiss dropped the tweezer function in the CF versions. However, before I bought my own 60mm CF, I borrowed a 60mm C T* and just hated all other aspects of its ergonomics.
 
Simons observations are absolutely correct.
C type lenses were designed at a time the word ergonomics probably did not even exist.
Once used to their way of operation there are not many problems.
Certain focal lenghts like the 60 mm take some effort to focus.
Others like the 120 C lens are easier. These lenses are still my favourites for
close up jobs.
Stopped down to 5.6 the SWC will give sharp pictures from 2m till infinity when
the camera is set hyperfocal.
 
Are there any "issues" using the CFV back with the SWCM CF? Is this a reasonable set up or does the 1.5 crop factor negate the usefulness of the SWC.

Steve
 
The SWC will still be a wide angle but not as extreme as with a filmback.
Images from the SWC and the CFV are very good as can be seen from recent
samples posted.

You will need a special adapter to fit the battery.
This adapter should be in the CFV kit.

SWC and CFV make a good combination that allows for low profile shooting
with little or no noise to disturb the subject.
 
Simon, many thanks for the additional feedback, appreciated.

Steve, your question about the SWC/CFV combination can only really be resolved by yourself and your own requirements. You have to ask yourself is a 57mm (1.5x 38mm) lens going to be adequate for your needs.
 
Are there any "issues" using the CFV back with the SWCM CF? Is this a reasonable set up or does the 1.5 crop factor negate the usefulness of the SWC.

Steve

Well... that depends of course. Lets face it, you probably bought an SWC because of the beautiful wide angle lens. I, for one, would not want to see that wide angle be degraded to a ~ 60mm lens.

I do not have a SWC, I own a CF40 but that roughly matches the 38mm. I would want it to remain the wide angle that is my pride & joy.

Just my EUR 0.05..

Wilko
 
Wilko,

I heard a strong rumor from a reliable source that you are glueing 2 CCDs together to get al larger sensor.

My camera shop also told me there is an inventor who made enquiries for special CCD glue.
This guy could not be described accurately but what I heard does fit your appearance.
So lets here more about this project before we all spent our money on CVF backs.
I also noticed there is a growing interest in the model 70 filmback.
I am convinced this is no coincidence. :z04_975: :lol::lol:

Paul
 
Wilko,

I heard a strong rumor from a reliable source that you are glueing 2 CCDs together to get al larger sensor.

My camera shop also told me there is an inventor who made enquiries for special CCD glue.
This guy could not be described accurately but what I heard does fit your appearance.
So lets here more about this project before we all spent our money on CVF backs.
I also noticed there is a growing interest in the model 70 filmback.
I am convinced this is no coincidence. :z04_975: :lol::lol:

Paul

Shhh... not so loud. I'm also experimenting with glueing a big magnifying glass in front of that tiny sensor. You know the kind Grandma used to do her embroidering.

:z04_Flucht:

Wilko
 
Welcome at the forum and thank you for the suggestion.

Only thing is the Nikon/Canon sensors are not of the correct bloodtype.
For this project only Swedish designed and made sensors will be used.

That means we have to make do with what is left at Svenska Kugellager Fabriken better known as SKF.
Wilko is busy renovating old lenses so the sensor project has been put on ice for now.

Thank you very much for the suggestion but keep in mind it has to be an all Danish or Swedish back.
 
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