Suitable tape for black lenses and cameras

[simonpg]

While this is not an accessory, it is a tip for anyone needing to put black tape on a lens barrel or some other black area of their camera.

When I had my Hasselblad 250mm Sonnar repaired last week, I got a nice surprise. The repair was minor, but the nice Hasselblad agent's repair man checked my lens since he had it in his hands,

When I collected the lens and inspected it at the agent's office, I realised that a very small amount of very nice black tape had been put on the top of the lens barrel and the UV filter. It was nearly impossible to see and looked great.

You see, I find that when I have a UV filter of these CF lenses the damn thing comes off when I remove the lens cap. It annoys me a lot. Maybe these filters are made of soft alloy and that loosens the bayonet fitting.

BUT whatever the cause of this it is a BIG nuisance when busy shooting and the filter falls off after I remove a lens cap. I have tried to tighten the filter bayonet to make a tighter fit - only helps for a few times of use.

SO, in the past I had a samll amount of "magic" frosty clear tape at the top of the barrel and on the side of the filter - stops the filter from moving when I remove the lens cap.

This technician had removed my tape and added their own black tape. BUT IT IS NOT AN ORDINARY TAPE (although easily found in my city).

It looked so good I asked the technician what type of tape it is - he replied "standard electrical tape". But I discovered it is a new better, thinner, non shiny tape that has become popular with electricians in Australia.

I bought a roll hoping it was the right one, and it is. It is nearly INVISIBLE to the eye.

SO FOR ANYONE WANTING FINE BLACK TAPE FOR THE BLACK LENSES AND CAMERA BODIES, THIS TAPE IS CALLED - NITTO TAPE.

I have never heard of it before and is much better that the old regular black electrical tape because that is thicker, shinier, has more gum and looks BAD. The Nitto tape looks like the CF black barrels and is thin with fine gum. The technician said they use it a lot and the gum is also harmless.

I hope this is helpful to some one.

PS the packaging had no more information - not even where it was made!!!

 

[wbulte]

I noted that the filter rims on Heliopan filters are a much better/nicer fit than the ones with Hasselblad label on them. At least this observation holds for my sample.

Heliopan has brass fittings, Hasselblad aluminium (from the looks of it). I happen to have 2 B60 pola filters, one HB, one Heliopan. Both have their pro/cons:

HB +: I can fit a lens shade with the filter already on the lens.
HB -: it is only a (very) loose fit
HB -: it has no front B60 bajonet, so lens cap won't fit.
HB +: it really is slimline (no front B60 remember)
HB - : it has a smooth rim, no "knurls" (??) for easier rotating of the filter

HP +: very nice, robust brass
HP +: has front bajonet, accomodates B60 lenscap
HP -: diameter too big to slide a lens shade over
HP +: very robust fit on the lens

The end result is that the HB sits on my CF50, I simply cannot fit the HP on this one with the shade already mounted. With the HB I can fit the shade with the filter already on the lens. The HP sits on my CF250, my CB80 or with an adapter ring on my C150.

The loose fit versus nice brass also holds for a couple of UV filters I own.

Just shows how something inherently simple can get complicated in the end.

Wilko

 

[polypal]

Wilko,

Unless I am suffering from sudden brain damage I usually fit a HB filter and can also fit a lenscap to that filter.
That goes for both 60 mm and 70 mm filters.

Fitting any thing on 60 or 70 mm lenses depends on the amount of wear
on the lens bay. and also to the condition of the filter.

A lenscap that simply drops of from one lens will fit well on another lens.
Same goes for filters.

Paul

 

[wbulte]

Wilko,

Unless I am suffering from sudden brain damage I usually fit a HB filter and can also fit a lenscap to that filter.
That goes for both 60 mm and 70 mm filters.

Fitting any thing on 60 or 70 mm lenses depends on the amount of wear
on the lens bay. and also to the condition of the filter.

A lenscap that simply drops of from one lens will fit well on another lens.
Same goes for filters.

Paul

Well, my HB pola does not have a front bajonet. One could call it a slimline pola. So the B60 lens cap it cannot use. Maybe (possibly?) HB has supplied multiple variations of the B60 polariser?

Wilko

 

[simonpg]

Thanks Wilko and Paul. I've had some similar experience to what you both describe.

FIRSTLY - NITTO TAPE:

I APPLIED THE NITTO TAPE TO EACH LENS TO SECURE THE FILTERS - THE COLOUR AND FINISH ARE SO GOOD IT IS 95% THE SAME AS THE LENS' BLACK FINISH AND LOW SHEEN. THE TAPE IS SO SLIM THAT IT IS HARD TO DETECT ON THE LENS.


SECONDLY - UV FILTERS' FIT:

I have 2 types of B60 UV filters in use:

1. HB - I bought each used (or came with the used lenses I bought) but all have no real signs of bayonet wear (to my eyes anyway). But 1 of the 4 I have has Hasselblad branding that has partly worn off.

2. Hoya's top range (Black/gold) 2 sided multi-coated UV filters. Each was bought new.

3. I also have a Hoya B60 polariser as well as HB branded warming, tungsten and orange filters.

The WORST fitting filters I have are the Hasselblad branded ones (not all of them but most of them. They all needed adjustment of the "male" bayonet end to fit the lens snugly. The Hoya filters fitted firmly first go.

I think I recall correctly that all the filters I use on my Hasselblad 6x6 kit will accept another filter on top. Also all of them pose no problem for fitting the lens hood.

I have not seen Heliopan filters for sale here. BUT I would always buy a brass or steel rimmed filter over an alloy one for obvious reasons. That is why all my Leica filters are B&W. BUT, I thought Heliopan is the maker of Hasselblad filters anyway and that Heliopan uses brass rims? Is that wrong??!!??

Most of the filters (Hasselblad and Hoya) have problems with the lens caps fitting snugly - I feel this may also be affected by the plastic bayonet wearing out.

Overall I do not like Hasselblad's 6x6 bayonet design.
I find it clumsy and unreliable - filters and lens caps falling off all the time.

Worst of all is the fact that IF THE FILTER FITS SNUGLY AND THE LENS CAP FITS SNUGLY, INVARIABLY THE DAMN FILTER COMES OFF WITH THE LENS CAP!

This is the problem I have regularly and WHY I NEED TO USE TAPE ON THE SIDE OF THE LENS AND FILTER.

In fact interestingly, Hasselblad modified its bayonet system for the XPan (or Fuji improved it!).

The lens hood has a bayonet fitting BUT it fits to the outside of the lens rim and on the XPan II it has a very reliable locking device/button to secure it. The lenses take thread mount filters - therefore there is no issue with them coming off when you remove the lens cap.

Of course (especially with a range-finder camera's need for "short" lens hoods to avoid obscuring the view-finder too much), stacking more than 2 filters on the XPan lenses causes the lens shade to not fit because the last filter's projection into the lens hood does not have enough room.

Finally, I am intrigued about why the Hasselblad 6x6 bayonet fitting causes so much trouble, whereas the Japanese kits just use thread mount - surely these would have issues with sticking etc to each other. But alas, the only filter fit trouble I experience is with my Hasselblad 6x6 kit!!! I never have this problem with my Canon 1vHS kit; Leica-M......... the list goes on...!

What do the Hasselblad 6x4.5 H series lenses have - bayonet or thread mount?

 

[polypal]

The H series lenses have threads some even as large as 95 mm.
A bay. is likely to be faster to fit but can present all sorts of problems.

A fine thread takes more time to fit correctly.

 

[simonpg]

I agree Paul. But, I am not sure what is worse - the extra time to fit a thread version; or having things fall off etc! :angry:

 

[wbulte]

I agree Paul. But, I am not sure what is worse - the extra time to fit a thread version; or having things fall off etc! :angry:

Well, basically we want a bajonet with a small (un)locking button.

I have had the same experiences with the lenscap taking the filter off the lens. That has made me mutter slightly foul language at times, I have to admit

Wilko

 

[polypal]

Super glue wilko, super glue.
A few drops in the right places and the filter never comes off when you remove the lenscap.
OK if the UV filter needs to make room for a polarizer you will need a blowtorch to remove the UV filter.
That is the only disadvantage I can think of.

Maybe it is better to go back in time and get a nice clean 1000F camera.
All filter and lenscap problems are solved at once.
It takes a little time but you will come to understand Rick, Simon, Jürgen, Ulrik and me better.
We are no fools. We like to stay out of the greedy hands of Mr. Poulsen and only contribute funds to
cameras Victor personally gave a pat on the back before they were packed.

I have a nice sales brochure available that will show you what sheer unlimited possibilities
these rock solid cameras have.
You are lucky the FUC is about to start a run of repro lens hoods.
Things like hoods are getting more difficult to find but the FUC fills that gap.

I am sure Ulrik will be pleased to show you a fully rebuilt 1000F camera with a nice Tessar lens.
Some people make life more difficult than it is. Keep it simple and do not engage yourself
with modern things like a 500C or even a CM.
Stay with solid designs that have proved reliable for at least 50 years.

Paul

ps
Banging your head against a wall will only damage the wall and may introduce a
terrific headache. Aspirin will solve that I am sure.
A more sensible decision what camera you are going to use can prevent all this agony.