Just read an article on a camera blog that concerned me. Several Hasselblad users said it is very difficult to use the Hasselblad hand held at slower shutter speeds. They indicated that one will not get a sharp image using anything under 125th of a second. I want to use my 500CM for available light candids. I have a 50mm, 80mm and 150mm lens. Does anyone have experience shooting hand held candids with the 80mm? If so, what is the slowest shutter speed you were able to use? I am sure I would be able to use the 50mm at slower speeds, but am concerned about the 150mm. In a few days, I will experiment using a newspaper as a target and try hand holding all these lenses at about 10 feet to see the sharpness of each lens at each speed. This will be for black and white images and I will try the various fast films as well. I really love using a tripod for everything, but candids would require one to be less obvious.
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Shooting hand held with 500CM
- Thread starter TonyM
- Start date
wbulte
Active Member
I try to keep in line with the ol' formula: 1/(focal length) as slowest shutter speed. But I often go slower. I apparantly have quite steady hands. What also helps: 45 degr prism, press the rubber eyecup to your head and things (for me) are extra steady.
YMMV a lot, as people are very different in 'steadiness'. In general, I do not hesitate to go slower than 1/125. I've done things like 1/15 with the camera handheld but steadied against a wall or floot (typically in cathedrals etc). MLU helps a lot here too
Wilko
I am experimenting at this moment. I could see the image through the finder shaking as I tried to focus. I am not steady. I tried a monopod which helped a great deal. ALso, I hung the camera around my neck with a larger diameter camera strap and put downward pressure on the camera. That along with holding it tight to my chest and taking a deep breath, really steadied the camera. I also used a short cable release. Did not try locking up the mirror since I then would not be able to see the screen anymore for a subject that is moving. I will be interested in seeing my negatives to this point.
wbulte
Active Member
MLU is tricky for moving objects. My cathedrals were polite enough to keep still
All that joking aside: I personally never liked the WLF, I tend to get tilted horizons and I am definitely not as steady with the WLF as with the prism finder. I only use the WLF for weird perspectives, like frog perspective in a church, or to shoot a ceiling etc. I also have a mini-tripod (approx 20cm high) that I can sneak into places that don't like tripods. For that it is a total blessing!
Wilko
blowupster
Member
My experiences: 60mm --> 1/60 and 150mm 1/125
I made tone of pitures with 110mm @1/90 with CFV-39. As the 110mm is not light, it's OK.
Tripod may help for foccusing too.
I made tone of pitures with 110mm @1/90 with CFV-39. As the 110mm is not light, it's OK.
Tripod may help for foccusing too.
polypal
Active Member
Shooting handheld at slow shutterspeeds is not a problem concerning Hasselblad cameras only. It is fighting against the laws of nature to keep any camera steady in handheld mode.
Keeping a camera steady enough for images that are acceptable also depends on the final print size needed.
New develpments like carbon tripods are great but keep in mind mass is needed to absorb vibrations succesfully.
I have succesfully used 1/15 s but that was with a Super Wide camera without a mirror.
Better ad that myself before I am accused of cheating.
Keeping a camera steady enough for images that are acceptable also depends on the final print size needed.
New develpments like carbon tripods are great but keep in mind mass is needed to absorb vibrations succesfully.
I have succesfully used 1/15 s but that was with a Super Wide camera without a mirror.
Better ad that myself before I am accused of cheating.
Late Developer
New Member
As a "rule of thumb" it is usually possible to achieve acceptable sharpness hand-held at the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens - i.e. 40mm lens should be okay to hand hold down to around 1/40th. Longer lenses make allow much less latitude.
However, even the smallest movement will cause blur. Most of us will accept this as a trade-off against having to lug round a tripod - especially if you are walking up hills / mountains or even long distances on the flat.
The only sure way to get no blur is to use a tripod, secured and levelled and, ideally, protected from the wind. MLU and a cable release will help - though MLU is probably not a major factor in blur anyway.
I've also been told that using your left hand for the shutter release is a good idea when hand-holding the camera.
However, even the smallest movement will cause blur. Most of us will accept this as a trade-off against having to lug round a tripod - especially if you are walking up hills / mountains or even long distances on the flat.
The only sure way to get no blur is to use a tripod, secured and levelled and, ideally, protected from the wind. MLU and a cable release will help - though MLU is probably not a major factor in blur anyway.
I've also been told that using your left hand for the shutter release is a good idea when hand-holding the camera.
I solved the problem by buying a very strong and very light weight (2.1 LB) carbon fiber tripod. I use a 500ELM with the electronic cable release for my set up. I willl be doing groups and individuals for magazine articles. No more 4x5 press cameras and weddings like the old days. I feel much better with the camera on the tripod. The 500ELM is a fantastic looking machine on a tripod. I will shoot bounced flash with my old Stoboflash converted to rechargable batteries, and when needed, two small umbrellas with light weight stands. All of this, plus a backup 500CM, a 50mm, an 80mm and my 150mm, fit nicely into a rolling piece of lightweight luggage that I can pull with two fingers.
Now, with camera always on a tripod, I do not worry about shake anymore. Portra 400 for color and Tri-X for black and white, with an occasional roll of Provia. Now,the world is simple again. (What's a digital camera?)
Now, with camera always on a tripod, I do not worry about shake anymore. Portra 400 for color and Tri-X for black and white, with an occasional roll of Provia. Now,the world is simple again. (What's a digital camera?)
polarcircle
Member
Which tripod did you buy?
The carbon fiber tripod I just bought is a Gitzo Model GT0531. It cost me $450. Without the ball head, it weighs 1.6 pounds and extends to 51 inches. It closes to a neat 20 inches. I was told it can hold an 11 pound camera. My Hasselblad does not weigh half that with the 80 Planar. I was amazed at how sturdy it is. I use the waist level finder, so there is no need to raise it too high. I hang my camera bag and battery pack for my Strobo flash on the hook of the center column for added support.
I have 4 other tripods but all are much heavier and cumbersom to carry. I am almost 70 now and have a bad back.
This tripod will be in constant use since I do not travel or use the Hasselblad for snap shots or street shots. Strickly buisiness. The Hasselblad on a triod really intimidates the soccer moms and separates the photograhers from the digtial toy users.
I once read that Karsh (famous Canadian photographer) loved the way a tripod spells "professional". It makes it justifiable for one to charge more for his services over those who wander around snapshooting like tourists.
I have 4 other tripods but all are much heavier and cumbersom to carry. I am almost 70 now and have a bad back.
This tripod will be in constant use since I do not travel or use the Hasselblad for snap shots or street shots. Strickly buisiness. The Hasselblad on a triod really intimidates the soccer moms and separates the photograhers from the digtial toy users.
I once read that Karsh (famous Canadian photographer) loved the way a tripod spells "professional". It makes it justifiable for one to charge more for his services over those who wander around snapshooting like tourists.
polarcircle
Member
Thanks for this information. Interesting that a tripod, even new, now is as or more expensive than a used Hasselblad camera house.
Load of crap i use handheld all the time at anything from 1/15 up and i guess i have a steady hand but i also lean on stuff and rest against stuff, be it walls and whatever....just use it man....pay no mind to people who write more than shoot!
jeryharwood
Member
shooting handheld
As I have had, and use a superwide, an 500Cm, and currently a 501cm, I have to say that mostly I shoot handheld, using 50asa trannie film. I am constantly surprised at the quality and sharpness of my images. I do use the tripod occasionally, but it is a very heavy beast, and as most of my work is landscape, I tend to shoot handheld; having been in the military for a number of years, I adopt the classic marksman's stance of sitting or squatting down, with the camera locked in position with my elbows on my knees. It works very much as though you had a tripod, even with the slowest of films. I have done this in all sorts of situations, and enables you to change position very quickly, which is not the case with a tripod !
As I have had, and use a superwide, an 500Cm, and currently a 501cm, I have to say that mostly I shoot handheld, using 50asa trannie film. I am constantly surprised at the quality and sharpness of my images. I do use the tripod occasionally, but it is a very heavy beast, and as most of my work is landscape, I tend to shoot handheld; having been in the military for a number of years, I adopt the classic marksman's stance of sitting or squatting down, with the camera locked in position with my elbows on my knees. It works very much as though you had a tripod, even with the slowest of films. I have done this in all sorts of situations, and enables you to change position very quickly, which is not the case with a tripod !
Shooting handheld is too much a "personal" matter to be quantified in terms of shutter speed. For my experience, an Hasselblad camera does not "move" much. Of course one thing is shooting in "normal" conditions, another one shooting just after running or climbing!
Personally, I have often successfully tried also 1/60 with 150 mm and 1/15 with 50 mm, but I would recommend: 1/60 with 50 mm and 80 mm, 1/125 with 150 mm and 1/250 with 250 mm.
And IMO a tripod is generally welcome, but Hasselblad cmeras are made for handheld use!
Cordially
Personally, I have often successfully tried also 1/60 with 150 mm and 1/15 with 50 mm, but I would recommend: 1/60 with 50 mm and 80 mm, 1/125 with 150 mm and 1/250 with 250 mm.
And IMO a tripod is generally welcome, but Hasselblad cmeras are made for handheld use!
Cordially
polypal
Active Member
Absolutely true and often forgotten!