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Light meter for recently purchased 503cx ??

W6PJJ

New Member
Greetings:

I have considered purchasing a light meter to use with a 503CX I recently purchased. I will have a need to use this light meter both in a Studio as well as Outdoors. I have looked over a number of units but after sometime it all becomes blurry like a lens out of focus. In my searches I found that there is a Prisim Head for the 500 series that has a light meter incorporated in the Head. I'm just not so sure which way to go at this point. I would enjoy some advice and comments on various units that you folks have used and like for a number of reasons. I have shot for a very long time but have relied on; in camera light sensors. At work we have a Sekonic L-358 I use it but I'm not certain that I know what may be better for lack of comparisons.

Ciao,

Sil
 
Hi, I wouldn't go the metered prism route.. it is too clumsy and basic. plus unreliable if you are buying second-hand...

stick with the sekonic you are used to, they are good meters.. or if you have money to burn

http://www.sekonic.com/products/Sekonic L-758DR DIGITALMASTER.asp

at the momet i'm using the L-308s, which is as cheap as you can get... i'm wondering if i should upgrade, anyway i don't rely too much on this gadgets and prefer to go by instinct :D

take care and all the best
 
Light meter

A prism with light meter may be clumsy but with the exception of the earliest model, the 52051 prism, all Hasselblad metering prism are quite accurate.
Of course the prism needs to be set for the right viewing screen or be corrected by setting an adjusted film speed.

Whether clumsy or useful is up to the user to decide.
Besides metering a prism is also quite useful in areas with high light levels to check out the viewing screen.
For me the least important feature is the correction of left/right that is made by using a prism.
 
Hi, I wouldn't go the metered prism route.. it is too clumsy and basic. plus unreliable if you are buying second-hand...

I have a 45degr PM with meter. Clumsy and basic I would not call it, and also not unreliable. If I can properly expose Ektachrome with it...

Messing around with a handheld light meter (I own a Gossen) can be at least as clumsy. I hardly use my Gossen anymore since I have the prism.

Just a datapoint..

Wilko
 
Light Meter

Hi All,

IMHO, the separate meter is the way to go. It's more versatile and ecomomical. The cost of an in prism meter is way over priced. I presently use a Minolta Flash Meter VI, which is an incident, 1 degree spot, and electronic flashmeter rolled into one. Unfortunately, Minolta is now out of the meter business, but the same line is now manufactured by Kenko. Check out there website:

http://www.kenko-tokina.co.jp/e/meter.html

Ron
 
The cost of an in prism meter is way over priced.

Ron

Maybe that goes for the highly sought after PME 45 metering prism.
Older prisms to start with the PME3, already calibrated for Acute Matte screens, can be found from 175 euro now.
Not exactly a fortune and certainly less expensive than a decent new handheld meter.
Check out our classified section for these prisms!
 
I have a 45degr PM with meter. Clumsy and basic I would not call it, and also not unreliable. If I can properly expose Ektachrome with it...

Messing around with a handheld light meter (I own a Gossen) can be at least as clumsy. I hardly use my Gossen anymore since I have the prism.

Just a datapoint..

Wilko

I agree and the eye cup adds a third point of stability, if you so choose. When shooting film, the metered prism markedly reduces "bad" exposure especially when using a polarizing filter. It's less useful with a digital back.

Steve

Steve
 
My reply 2 u guys

Well: this thread drew a reasonable response and from one side of the spectrum to the other. This is good, I now have some more items to consider in my pursuit to light-metering happiness. I have a Gossen SBC Luna Pro I received as a gift. Old technology but the technology of light hasn't change so it works pretty well for it's vintage. I do appreciate the multi-purpose meters such as the Senkonic L-358. I use one in the Studio at work and especially enjoy the ability to set the Strobes accurately. I have not used it outside yet because our outdoor cameras have built-in sensors that quite frankly are superb. I thank you gentlemen for your replies and I will take some more time reading and digesting this information. I too have a prism head for the 503 and thoroughly enjoy it. I have always disliked having the daylight Sun interfere with viewing the subject. TNX AGN..

Sil
:cool:
 
I agree and the eye cup adds a third point of stability, if you so choose. When shooting film, the metered prism markedly reduces "bad" exposure especially when using a polarizing filter. It's less useful with a digital back.

Steve

I shoot film exclusively. No digiback here :)

My 501C/M has a checkerboard plus split AM-D screen, which helps me a lot getting my horizons etc properly aligned. The same screen and a WLF is much less effective for me.

Wilko
 
I use a PME with a CX 503 and it handles like a 35mm Nikon, just heavier and larger.

As far as using an old light meter, it is my considered experience that in spite of the digital revolution, photos still follow that same laws of physics for millions, if not billions, of years. A D-back accomplishes nothing other than reducing the wallet weight and the size of the image.

Steve
 
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