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Ibm very new to Hassybs world help


New Member
I just bought a 501CM. Here are some questions I would like to ask:
1. Is there a must to get a hood for the lenses? I see there are mainly two types of hood - pro shade & black hood. Which one is better?

2. How do you use flash with your camera? Do you attach the flash with your camera or using a remote flash?

3. Is there a big difference between a T* lenses and a non-T* (e.g., Sonnar chrome 250mm, f5.6) lenses? If yes, what is the difference?

4. What filter do you think is a must to buy and to use with your Hassy?

Thanks for answering these questions for me. You'll help me a lot.

1) The pro-shade is the better one if you use many lenses with different focal lengths as you can adjust its coverage (approx 50-250mm). The "black hood" is made for one or a few lenses, i.e 80mm or 100-250mm, and will provide less coverage than a pro-shade in the long focal lengths of each shade.

2) There's a small accessory rail on the left of the camera body but it'll support only a small flash gun in an optional flash shoe. The only real ways of carrying a Hassy and a flash at the same time is a) a pistol grip or b) attaching the flash to an accessory shoe on a prism viewfinder (such as PM/PME-finders). To sync the flash with the shutter, you need a cable between the lens and the flash gun.

3) The only difference between C- and CT*-lenses is the efficiency of the lens coating. Non T*-lenses are more prone to flare than newer T* ones, this is where you really need a good lens shade.

4) Hard to answer, it all depends on your subjects and methods. A b/w landscape photog would buy a yellow, orange and red filter, maybe a green one too. A portrait photog would buy a soft filter and a warm up. A close-up photog would buy a proxar. As a general start, I suggest a UV or skylight filter for lens protection, a yellow and red filter if you do b/w, a warm up and a grey grad (to reduce the contrast between sky and ground). This is what I got. Make sure you buy good quality such as B&W or Schneider (Singh-ray or Lee if you choose square filters). Filters come in very different price ranges, from a few dollars to hundreds. Buy the best you can afford.


"The camera is merely the means of capturing the image."

Just a quick note:
I'm sure you meant the flashgun bracket, not the pistol grip.

The pistol grip is a handle with trigger, which screws to the tripod plate, underneath the camera. The camera then sits on top of the grip, that offers no way to add a flash unit.

The flash gun bracket is an L-shaped thing, the horizontal bit supporting the camera, the grip & trigger being the vertical part. This thing has a shoe on top of the grip.
Thanks for Emil & Q.G. replies. You helped.

For the pro-shade hood, from eBay, I could see there are at least 2 different models (6093 ...). Which one do you recommend?

There are so many choices on filters. Besides B+W & Schneider, is Hassy brand great? Is it okay to use 67mm filter for the B50 or B60 lenses?

The Pro Shade is great for more deliberate work, but if you want to walk around with your CM slung over your shoulder, it's not as practical. Many pro shooters just use the regular hoods, others the Pro Shade.

I had the Pro Shade but sold it in favor of a Lee filter/shade. The main reason was the ability to use reverse back wide angle attachments that allow stacking filters without vignetting the corners of the image. Also, the Lee type systems allow use of the larger grad filters ... which can be slid up or down to place the filter effect where you want it in the photo.

Hasselblad never made the filters they sold bearing the Hasselblad name.
They were made by one of those German manufacturers (i forget which of the two).

B+W and Heliopan (those two German brands) produce excellent filters.
Schneider, by the way, is owner of B(iermann)+W(eber), so Schneider filters are B+W filters.

Using the right adapter, using 67 mm filters on B50 and B60 lenses is not a problem.

The Hasselblad B60-67 mm adapter allows the use of the regular sunshade (a must, especially when using filters).

I however doubt there is a B50-67 mm adapter that will allows the use of a sunshade.
One option would be to first add the Hasselblad B50-B60 adapter, then a B60-67 mm adapter, and finally a B60 sunshade. But that's a lot to buy...
B50 filters are plenty, and cheap, so why not get the ones you want in B50 size and use the regular B50 shades?

The most versatile ProShade is the 6093/6093T. It holds 4"/100 mm square filters, while allowing at least one lens mounted bayonet filter.

I don't like the choice of material used in the 6093 bellows, nor the extension locking mechanism. The material has a 'memory' and is so stiff, that it never holds the length set but always creeps (poor locking mechanism) to where it was previously. I use elastic bands to stop the locking thingy sliding along the rail.
But even when blocked in this "Pro" way the problem isn't solved: this creep is so powerfull (or the construction of the frame so weak) that it will even skew the entire shade, throwing front and rear out of parallel (not too dramatically, just a bit. But it shouldn't happen at all).
These problems were addressed (or so i was made to believe) in the second version of the 6093, the 6093T. But whether they were really solved i do not know. Never tried one.
You need the appropriate lens mounting rings to be able to use this shade. There is none for B50 lenses, but you can add the B50-B60 adapterring.

That things need not be like that is shown by the ProShade that preceded the 6093: the Professional Lens Shade 50-70.
It too has a folding rail, along which a very similar locking mechanism slides. The bellow however shows none of the annoying memory or stifness, and the locking mechanism holds everything very well indeed.
This bellows however does not offer any way to use filters. Though there is a slot in the lens mounting rings you need to use this shade, which will take 3"/75 mm gel filters.
There is such a lens mounting ring for (among others) both B50 and B60 lenses.

The even earlier ProShade (the one with the non-folding rail and round locking and setting screws) is very much the same, except that it will only fit (using lens mounting rings) to B50 and series 63 mount lenses.

(There was yet another ProShade, meant to be used on lenses having a 93 mm front mount only. I guess you will not need one o those in a hurry, but if you do, the 6093/6093T is the current alternative)

All of these ProShades share the same drawback: they offer very limited or no way to use graduated filters.
And they are relatively large (in use, that is; they take up less space in your bag than a set of fixed hoods).
Thanks again for all your opinions

I have a 80, 150 & 250mm lenses which are B50; a 120mm Makro lenses is B60. I have a regular hood(B50) for the 80mm lenses. What should I get for the rest? Could I use my only hood for all other B50 lenses? I think I'll not buy the pro-shade since it seems so large and is not good to carry around. I love to take outdoor pictures.

Do you usually take pictures by holding the camera or using a tripod?

What is the difference between a A12, A16 & A24 back? How many do you have?
You could use your B50 hood on your 150 mm and 250 mm C lenses, but it would not be as good as using the longer B50 hood. Even then, the longer one is a bit short for the 250 mm lens.
These longer B50 hoods are not hard to find used.

The B50 hood obviously will not fit your B60 120 mm lens. For that, you need the B60 100-250 hood. That too can be found used. And it is still available new too.

You could use that B60 100-250 hood on your B50 150 mm and 250 mm C lenses, using the B50-B60 step up ring.
That ring is no longer available used, but again is not hard to find used, or as unsold old stock.

I don't know what would be the cheaper solution: getting a B50 and a B60 hood, or just getting the B60 hood and the step up adapter.
Using the step up ring however will also allow you to use B60 filters on all three of your B50 lenses, so you need get only one set!

Using a tripod is a must if you want to get all you can out of your Hasselblad and the Zeiss lenses. So do so whenever possible.
It is however possible to hand hold the camera, and (depending on your hand holding skills, of course) the results can still be great.
Never as good though. So...

The number in the back type designation indicates the number of exposures you get on one roll of film.
An A12 back produces 12 frames, 6x6 cm format, on a roll of type 120 film.
The A16 produces 16 frames in 6x4.5 cm format (landscape orientation) on the same type 120 film.
The A24 produces 24 frames in 6x6 cm format on a roll of type 220 film.

There were/are different backs too:
- A16S produces 16 frames in 4x4 cm "superslide" format on 120 film.
- A12V produces 12 frames in 6x4.5 cm format (portrait orientation) on 120 film.
- A32 produces 32 frames in 6x4.5 cm format on 220 type film.
- A2035 produces 20 frames in 24 mm x 56 mm format (vertical) on type 135 film.
The last three types were special order products and are rare.

Then there are the 70 mm film backs:
- the 'regular' "70" producing up to about 70 frames on 70 mm film
- the "70 100/200" which produces about 100 frames on the same film, twice as much on extra thin base 70 mm film;
- the "70/500" held a full 100 ft roll of 70 mm film, producing up to 500 frames.
All of the above 70 mm backs produce 6x6 cm format frames.
There was one special order 70 mm film back too producing about 90 frames in 6x4.5 cm format.
This 6x4.5 cm back and the "70 100/200" were also available with data recording module.

Next (are you still with me?
) there are the "A" type and non-"A" type backs.
They differ in how film is loaded.

The first, non-A, type have a peep-hole on the back, allowing you to see the paper backing of the film.
After loading film on the insert, and inserting that into the shell, you would open the peep-hole cover, and watch the paper backing while turning the wind key on the magazine. When the number "1" appeared, you knew that the first frame is in position in the film gate. You then closed the peep-hole cover and set the film counter to "1" by turning the wind key anticlockwise.
Using the later "A" (stands for "automatic") type backs, you load the film on the insert until the line acros the paper leader lines up with a mark on the spool holder, insert the insert in the shell, and wind the wind crank until it blocks. Then you're ready to shoot. No need for visual inspection, no need to reset the frame counter.

How many backs do we have?
I have too many.

I restrict myself to carrying two A12 backs, sometimes a third, sometimes an A16 as well.

It all depends on what i expect to, or need to, do. Your use may need more backs. But i find carrying two A12 backs is usually one too many already (usually only one type of film in use at any given time. I hate using both colour and B&W film for the same subject).

While it certainly does occur, the need for a preloaded spare magazine to make changing to a fresh film occurs not that often. Reloading a magazine does not take long.

But again, your approach to photography/your chosen subject may differ, and with it the number of backs you need.
> There was a professional hood 40676 that "folds" (accordian style for > the hood itself, and then book style for the rail) to make it more > compact. It is very handy for traveling or outdoors. It fits (with > appropriate adapter rings) B50-B70.

> You may want to get a copy of "Hasselblad System Compendium " by > Richard Nordin. It covers all the Hasselblad equipment through 1997 I > believe. It can be very useful in dealing with older equipment > obtained second hand ( off Ebay for ex&le). While the Compendium is > more like a catalog with descriptions, "The Hasselblad Way" by Freytag > (a book dating back to the 70's-80's) is also excellent on the older > equipment but is more of a "how to" book. Still well worth the trouble > to obtain however due to its description in the usage of the > equipment.
O.G., I learnt so much from you!

I think I would buy a B60 hood and a B50 TO B60 adapter ring. Then, a B50 to 67mm & a B60 to 67mm rings for my old filters. By the way, is Hoya filter good for Hassy quality pics? They are cheaper than Heliopan & B+W. Maybe what you paid is what you got!?

When you use tripod most of the time, do you use shutter cable for more stability?

Since I do not have the manuals of lenses, could you tell me what is the V, X, M on the lenses for? They are all set on X now. How could I switch to V or M? Can these lenses do self-timer?

Here comes the problem child again!!!
I have never used Hoya filters myself, but yes, probably you get what you pay for.

Mind you, not all what you pay for is in the optical bit (the quality of the glass in the filter). Some of it is in the mount (brass vs aluminium). So cheaper filters could be just as good (as filter) as more expensive filters.
I just don't know how good or bad Hoya filters really are.

When having the camera on a tripod, i almost always use pre-release and a cable release, yes.
There are few occasions that you would need to see the viewfinder image all the time, up to the moment you press the release.
There are no occasions that you cannot use a cable release instead of your finger.

"V" stands for "Vorlaufwerk". German, indicating the self-timer.
The delay is about 8 seconds. The lever will switch to "X" the moment the lens is triggered.
You set the switch to "V" by pressing the little metal tab sitting just left of the "VXM" switch while shifting that VXM-switch. A bit awkward, but meant to be that way so you don't do it accidentaly.

You need to lock the release button to keep the rear shutter open when using the self timer. For that you need a locking cable release.
If you don't, pushing the release will close the lens' shutter and diaphragm, open the rear auxylliary shutter, and start the self-timer (all fine so far), but when you let go of the release button again the rear shutter will slam shut before the self timer will have had a chance to complete its delay and trigger the shutter.

You can't use "B" when using the selftimer.

"M" stand for "Medium speed", and is the flash synchronisation setting to be used with flash bulbs (the old, single use things) of said type.
They need a certain time from the moment they are ignited until they reach full burn/full output level, hence the ignition is triggered some time (about 30 ms, if i remember right) before the shutter begins to open. That way they will have time to reach full power the moment the shutter is open.

"X" stands for X flash synchronisation used with electronic flash. Electronic flash is instantaneous, needs no such lead in time. So with X-synch, the flash is triggered the exact moment the shutter is fully open.
That's a broad question.

Nasty shadows, for one.

You hook up the flash cord to the PC connector on the lens, make sure the VMX-thing is set to X, and that's it.
Using your 120 mm lens, you only have to connect the falsh cord. No VXM-choice.

The central shutter in the lens synchs at all speeds, so you can use any shutterspeed aperture combination you like/need.

For 'straight' automatic flash, select one of the aperture settings available on your flash unit, set the same on the lens, and select the shutter speed you like.
For "fill flash", determine what aperture and shutterspeed is needed to get a correct ambient light exposure, set both on the lens, and then select a larger aperture (lower f-number) on the flash.