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Epson 3200 2450

> The 8000ED and 9000ED have several negative carriers depending on what > you are scanning. The common ones are

FH-869GR - 120/220 film rotated holder w/glass (this has several masks incl one for the XPan panoramic format) FH-869G - 120/220 film strip holder w/glass FH-83S - 35mm film strip holder (no glass) FH-835M - 35mm mounted film holder (no glass) FH-869S- 120/220 film strip holder (no glass)

glass means there is a glass 'sandwich' to hold the film "flat" no glass means the film is held (typically) around the edges to keep it flat.
 
So, what is the consensus on the Nikon 8000/9000ED vs the Artixscan 120TF with regard to quality? Is the quality and speed of these scanners worth the difference in price over the Epson 4870?? The more I read about scanners, the more frustrated I become since most discussions ultimately lead to mention of scanners that make the digital back for my 503cw seem the cheaper alternative
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HELP!!!
 
What is your ultimate application? If you want web pictures or decent prints up to 8x10 then maybe the Epson would be a good choice. If you need to crop extensively or go to 11x14 or higher the Nikon 9000 or Artixscan would be good. If you do a lot of high-quality scans then speed and quality matter a lot. I don't agree with your assessment of the cost. A Nikon 9000 for $2k is a lot less than a digital back. Even going $4-5k for an Imacon 343 is still half the cost of the cheapest 16MP digital back. I use both and after I got my 16MP back, scanner use declined markedly.
 
Larry,
Thanks for the input! I plan to use the scanner to post wedding candids on the web and to produce Artistic prints 24x24 or larger. I was thinking of threads on other forums where the quality of the output of these scanners was trashed in favor of scanners such as the Imacon and Aztek, as well as other pre production scanners that could cost as much as my CAR! I want a scanner that can justify the money I spent on the Zeiss lenses
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If you are cost conscious then pick up a used 8000 or a new one since the price has dropped from what it was. I use that scanner and am able to take the prints up to 13 x 19 with cropping which effectively takes them up to 26 x 40 without resolution loss. I also use the 3200. It also is great for preserving your resolution but as has been said - probably 11 x 14 is your max. Also it does not give you as many options while scanning. But I believe that an 8000 will do all that you want and for the dollar is your best bet.
 
> As I contemplate the issues involved with scanning negatives, I wonder if there is a very much better cost solution that offers possibly better results. Please know that I am not being critical of those who do their own scans and prints from film, and that I post my comments purely as informational and in search of some answers. The entire issue arises as I start planning to update my home computer system and think about getting involved with home scans, printing, and Photoshop. Thus far I do not use a digital camera or back, and I direct my remarks to those who, for the time being, are remaining with film media.

Allow me to expand upon my thinking. I can take my film ( either 120 or 35mm ) to my very professional local developer who has the latest Fuji equipment. He can process my color negatives and prints, and at the same time make a digital CD of the prints from his high quality scanner. I would guess that his scan would be far better then any I can do with the more cost effective scanners one can purchase. Of course, I am not thinking about the Imacon or others of that quality. Furthermore, I am not alluding to scanning negatives or transparencies for it appears to me that scanning and then printing from these sources imposes another step between the image and the final print, and that this extra step necessarily adds some degradation to the final print. To continue, I can use that "print" CD to import the images into my computer, and manipulate them as I wish and then print the results with one of the better ink printers now available realizing that whatever prints I make will probably not be the equal of the prints the dealer can make using chemical methods and his Fuji equipment. He can do all of the color corrections that are needed instantaneously, crop, etc., and make a print very quickly and very cost effectively. Indeed, a 4 x6 from a 35mm negative is about 26 cents including the color corrections and basic crops. Obviously a larger print would cost some what more, but very little. Other then doing some more artistic work using PS, why would one desire to do a scan and manipulate the image at home at a cost in time and money that is likely to be much greater then one can obtain at the dealer? Furthermore, the "chemical print" is likely to be superior then the one I can produce at home. If my reasoning is at all valid, I fail to see the advantages of owning and using a home photo scanner and printer other then to enjoy the experience. However, the very fact that so many of my much more learned and experienced colleagues feel that scanning images and manipulating them is effective makes me wonder where and why my logic is flawed. I admit that "enjoying the experience" is a very valid reason to scan and print oneself and I repeat once more that my remarks are not at all meant to be critical.

Elliot
 
Elliot I can relate to that. I still shoot film, hopefully not for too long. I was extremely disappointed with my Pro-Labs results from my H1. They developed & scanned it to a CD. So when I got Epson 4870, my scans were 100% better. Also now I shoot only Fuji Slide films, this way the labs don't automatically adjust my intentional over/under exposures (on print films they seem to do that). Also when U scan it yourself, you can either tweak it or do it later in PS. I also have a ton of old 35 & 120 slides, negs & prints. So for me it is much cheaper. Also one can rescan easily, in case if you res&le the scan too much or forgot to make a copy layer before working on it. As long as you plan NOT to tweak, colorize, crop & other million things in PS, than U're OK to let the lab do the work. Personally I rather have control from A to Z. Also I agree with you that chemical prints are probably better. Anyways that is my two cents.
 
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