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Cant get my lens back on

I

itspeanut

New Member
hey everyone, my name is sheila. I'm not new to this forum, just new to posting here;) I've got a problem reattaching my lens to my 500c. I've only had this camera for a few months and have only shot with the poloroid back on. I took the lens off to attach a close up piece (please exuse my not so tech. wording) and everything was fine until I removed the lens again to shoot without the close up piece and now the lens wont "snap" back in nor will it "snap" into the close up piece either. I might be new to this particular camera but I've taken lenses off and reattached them plenty. Anyone have this problem/solution or should I take this straight to a repair shop? Thanks for hearin me...sheila
 
If you removed the lens and the extension tube as a unit, that is the problem. You must add from the camera body out and remove from the lens toward the body. That is, extension tube then lens when attaching them and lens off then tube off when removing them. I suspect that your lens needs to be reset so that the coupling shaft is aligned with the red dots.
 
Sheila
Do not force it. I would take it to a repair shop but not any repair shop- the one that deals with hasselblads. I hope you sort it out - can be very frustrating I know.
regards
 
I think that Richard's reply was right on the mark.

If you use extension tubes or extenders with your Hasselblad, it is of the utmost importance that you follow the proper procedure when attaching and removing them from your camera to prevent the camera from jamming.

When attaching an extension tube or extender, always attach the tube or extender to the body first, and then attach the lens to the tube or extender. If using more than one tube, attach the first tube to the camera, then attach the second tube, and then attach the lens.

When removing the components, it is essential that you remove them in exactly the opposite way you attached them. First, remove the lens. Then remove the tube or the extender from the body. If you are using more than one tube, remove the lens first, then remove the tube that is next to the lens, then remove the tube that is attached to the body.

NEVER REMOVE THE TUBE(S) OR EXTENDER AND THE LENS TOGETHER!

If you remove the lens and tube or extender at the same time and they jam on the camera, gently try to reattach the assembly to the body, and proceed according to the above instructions. If they will not lock back on to the body properly, don't try to force them on or off. Doing so can damage the front key on the body. If this happens, the front key assembly will have to be replaced, and this is a very expensive part.

If you would call me, I'd be happy to talk you through the procedure to reset your lens and tube.

David S. Odess
Factory trained Hasselblad technician
(781) 963-1166
 
Sheile,

Take a coin, see that it will fit in the slotted disc on the rear of the lens, and turn it in the direction of the arrow until it clicks and locks.

That's all there is to it.

Same thing can happen with the tube (and bellows, and teleconverters). The same remedy too.

The mechanisms inside both tubes and lenses are sprung, primed to "go". The are only two things stopping it.
The first is a tiny catch, tripped by a pin in the camera/tube lens mount. You can see the little thing inside the semicircular collar on the back of any lens or tube. Push it, and it will fire the thing. You then have to reset the mechanism the way described above.
The other is the camera's and tube's key/dog, which slots into the slotted disc on the rear of both lenses and tubes. The controlled movement of this dog, goverened by the camera's mechanism, is what synchronizes the sprung mechanism inside lenses and tubes with the camera.

No need to call a repair shop, Afzal. This is not uncommon, and not a fault either. They did not put that explanatory little arrow back there for nothing.
You just have to know about it. ;-)
 
thanks everyone! that's exactley what happened, I took the tube and lens off at the same time. David, I was just about to call you so you could walk me through the reset procedure and then I got the next post from Q.G. and voila!, it's all fixed! I love it when people who know what they're doing take time out to pass it on..don't you wish the rest of the world worked like that?? thx again...sheila
 
Many thanks to U all for these most valuable information.
I use an incridebly cheap in the hasselblad price range "Telemore" 95 2x converter to turn a 150mm F/4 into a 300mm F/11. When removing the lense (first!) from the body + converter group, it fires the lense. The lense needs to be cocked before it is re attached to a cocked body. There comes the coin and the arow wise turn. The same happens to the converter when removed from the body. Since the converter does not have a diaphragm which obviously opens wide when a lense is cocked up the only way to tell is to align the slot and the red dot.
Never mount an un-cocked lense to an un-cocked body, it cost me a 100USD repair last time I did it...
Quality has some constraints
Et voilà!
 
Sheila,

Yes, aren't forums like this great?

And most of us even aren't trying to conduct a business here...

;-)
 
Hi Ted
having tested a number of brands and different iso films I have found NPC160 the best all round colour neg film for me. I primarily shoot landscape (although I think NPC is supposed to be portrait film and does a great job on skin tones) and have shot in varying light and weather conditions. With the exception of some (expected) colour shift with long exposures over about 10 seconds the versatility of this film is impressive. The colour rendition is great and of course the 3 stops of lattitude you have when using colour neg helps, especially when you forget to change the iso settings on your light meter from 100 for the b&w to 160 for the colour.
happy.gif
that extra bit of iso speed can be quite useful too. My recommendation is give it a try. I will certainly keep on using it.

Cheers Lindsay
 
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