about scanning 6x6 negs and slides
I have a Nikon super coolscan 9000 since 2007 and I think this gives quite satisfactory result. Of course I have gradually learnt how to scan.
Perhaps it could be of interest to tell my experience
I have learnt the hard way that it is very important to scan i 16 bits
and save in tiff format. I usually scan in the highest resolution 4000 dpi
and then interpolate down to 3200 in photoshop. The tiff files are then about 300Mb for color pics and 100 Mb bw. For 35 mm negs and slides I keep the 4000 dpi resolution.
For color pics I have then found Photoshop Camera raw to be most useful.
In that way I keep original data untouched and camera raw has quite powerful tools for color balance, brighness, contrast, sharpening etc. The processed result I usually save in jpeg, but I can always go back to the tiff file and save the edited result in other formats if need be. (The raw editing instructions get saved inside the original tiff file.)
For bw pics I various adjustment layers for making the editing reversible,
with the exception of the unavoidable spotting which I usually do irreversibly on the original tiff file (Unfortunately the digital ICE does not work for black and white.)
A Hasselblad neg is about 55x55 mm and the maximum width of the scanner is 57 mm, so I can keep a black border around the picture. The negs from my old Super Ikonta and Rolleiflex are wider, however, and here there is no way to include any border of unexposed film.
In order to get sharp scans from 120 film with the Nikon scanner the negative holder with glass is more or less mandatory. There are of course disadvantages with adding more glass/air surfaces; I have seen that there are 3rd party holders for liquid scans but I have no experience with these.
Finally I should mention that I also change the exif data and in particular the time stamp using exiftools. (Photoshop does not allow for such changes)
coa_lund
I have a Nikon super coolscan 9000 since 2007 and I think this gives quite satisfactory result. Of course I have gradually learnt how to scan.
Perhaps it could be of interest to tell my experience
I have learnt the hard way that it is very important to scan i 16 bits
and save in tiff format. I usually scan in the highest resolution 4000 dpi
and then interpolate down to 3200 in photoshop. The tiff files are then about 300Mb for color pics and 100 Mb bw. For 35 mm negs and slides I keep the 4000 dpi resolution.
For color pics I have then found Photoshop Camera raw to be most useful.
In that way I keep original data untouched and camera raw has quite powerful tools for color balance, brighness, contrast, sharpening etc. The processed result I usually save in jpeg, but I can always go back to the tiff file and save the edited result in other formats if need be. (The raw editing instructions get saved inside the original tiff file.)
For bw pics I various adjustment layers for making the editing reversible,
with the exception of the unavoidable spotting which I usually do irreversibly on the original tiff file (Unfortunately the digital ICE does not work for black and white.)
A Hasselblad neg is about 55x55 mm and the maximum width of the scanner is 57 mm, so I can keep a black border around the picture. The negs from my old Super Ikonta and Rolleiflex are wider, however, and here there is no way to include any border of unexposed film.
In order to get sharp scans from 120 film with the Nikon scanner the negative holder with glass is more or less mandatory. There are of course disadvantages with adding more glass/air surfaces; I have seen that there are 3rd party holders for liquid scans but I have no experience with these.
Finally I should mention that I also change the exif data and in particular the time stamp using exiftools. (Photoshop does not allow for such changes)
coa_lund
