What's new
Medium Format Forum

Register a free account now!

If you are registered, you get access to the members only section, can participate in the buy & sell second hand forum and last but not least you can reserve your preferred username before someone else takes it.

B & W film/developer combo's

J

JERV

New Member
Hi, I have been re-directed here & so hope I'm in the right Forum.
I'm at the end of my first month in MF, & whilst I'm thrilled with the kit & (some of) the results, I am on a mountainous learning curve. I'm concentrating on landscapes ( I live on the Yorkshire Pennines in England). I have developed the FP4 film with ID 11 and scanned it via an Epson V750 using Silverfast.
So far I've put a dozen rolls of film through the 503CX and I am gradually finding my way. My question is - aside from my current combo, what other film & developers have people tried that may help me get a little more depth & contrast into my shots?
Your suggestions gratefully received.
JERV
progress.gif
 
JERV said:
Hi, I have been re-directed here & so hope I'm in the right Forum.
I'm at the end of my first month in MF, & whilst I'm thrilled with the kit & (some of) the results, I am on a mountainous learning curve. I'm concentrating on landscapes ( I live on the Yorkshire Pennines in England). I have developed the FP4 film with ID 11 and scanned it via an Epson V750 using Silverfast.
So far I've put a dozen rolls of film through the 503CX and I am gradually finding my way. My question is - aside from my current combo, what other film & developers have people tried that may help me get a little more depth & contrast into my shots?
Your suggestions gratefully received.
JERV

progress.gif
Click to expand...


I'm using for the majority of my shots Ilford FP4+ or HP5+ developed in Rodinal 1+100, 1 hour stand (slow agitation in first 30 secs, then no touching for the remaining time, water stop, fixing+wash normally and finally a rinse with Ilfotol). Works for me! However, if you're looking for more contrast, this may not be for you.
 
Many thanks for your information - at this stage it is useful to see what others are doing.
Thanks
 
hi there, have a look through my posts and you will see developer/film combinations etc.....
My recent combinations are:

Fuji Acros with Kodak Xtol
Kodak T-Max 400 with Kodak Xtol
Kodak Tri-X 400 with Xtol
Fuji Acros with Ilford Perceptol

In the past used T-Max 100 with T-Max developer


JERV said:
Hi, I have been re-directed here & so hope I'm in the right Forum.
I'm at the end of my first month in MF, & whilst I'm thrilled with the kit & (some of) the results, I am on a mountainous learning curve. I'm concentrating on landscapes ( I live on the Yorkshire Pennines in England). I have developed the FP4 film with ID 11 and scanned it via an Epson V750 using Silverfast.
So far I've put a dozen rolls of film through the 503CX and I am gradually finding my way. My question is - aside from my current combo, what other film & developers have people tried that may help me get a little more depth & contrast into my shots?
Your suggestions gratefully received.
JERV
progress.gif
Click to expand...
 
sperera said:
hi there, have a look through my posts and you will see developer/film combinations etc.....
My recent combinations are:

Fuji Acros with Kodak Xtol
Kodak T-Max 400 with Kodak Xtol
Kodak Tri-X 400 with Xtol
Fuji Acros with Ilford Perceptol

In the past used T-Max 100 with T-Max developer
Click to expand...


I see a pattern here. I use Kodak XTOL for my black & white processing for the reasons at the website in my earlier post.

Steve
 
I was using TMAX, then D-76, both did a great job for me so far, i used TMAX films mostly with TMAX dev but it did fine with Ilford films [Delta 100 & 400], i used D-76 only on Ilford Delta 100 and HP5+ as i had it for 1 litre and i use only 1+1 dilution, so it served me only for 4 rolls and i didn't try to store it as i don't want to have problems and i am so new to film, now i am not sure if i have to go with XTOL as i really want to test this developer so bad [from what i hear about it], or go with Ilfosol 3 which i bought it by mistake from a local store [i thought it was Ilfostop bottle, but i was in hurry and didn't read the bottle carefully], i have also Diafine and ID-11, ID-11 is same as D-76, Diafine is a 2 baths dev and i bought it because it is independent for temp mostly as we have high temp weather and water and sometimes it is difficult for me to cool the water or control the temp, but i will give all these try and see what results i can get from them
I have different films to experiment even i heard many recommended me to go with 1 film and one developer for consistency, but i really not that guy who is looking for certain looks, all are fine with me and i just scan, later if i will print in darkroom then i may think about one combo.
 
i find when scanning films they all more or less look the same regardless of film used let alone developer used....

I can NOT tell the difference between T-Max 100 in T-max and Acros 100 in Acros or Acros 100 in Perceptol or Tri-X in Xtol.....there are so many variables its impossible for me to ascertain a definite result.....

i used Xtol cos its less toxic, cheap and gives me great results
I use Acros 100 cos its available and gives me great results
I use Portra films cos of their colour palette

most of all....I USE FILM COS OF ITS LOOK

Go to apug.com or hybridphoto.com and get your head turned inside out if you want to go further

my advice: shoot a great shot, develop the roll well and then get a great scan done ....i find crap scans are the real sinners

......as long as the exposure is right and the detail is there scanning levels it all out.....enlargements on photographic paper in the darkroom are another animal.....
 
sperera said:
i find when scanning films they all more or less look the same regardless of film used let alone developer used....

I can NOT tell the difference between T-Max 100 in T-max and Acros 100 in Acros or Acros 100 in Perceptol or Tri-X in Xtol.....there are so many variables its impossible for me to ascertain a definite result.....

i used Xtol cos its less toxic, cheap and gives me great results
I use Acros 100 cos its available and gives me great results
I use Portra films cos of their colour palette

most of all....I USE FILM COS OF ITS LOOK

Go to apug.com or hybridphoto.com and get your head turned inside out if you want to go further

my advice: shoot a great shot, develop the roll well and then get a great scan done ....i find crap scans are the real sinners

......as long as the exposure is right and the detail is there scanning levels it all out.....enlargements on photographic paper in the darkroom are another animal.....
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more.

I developed with TMAX, D-76, and Ilfosol 3, all gave me great results and look i want regardless of the film i was using, i just scan them with adjustments and i can get whatever look i want, even i printed few in the darkroom and again i've got nice prints, i am a member on APUG, an i chat there sometimes, all told me to be with one or 2 film and one developer for consistency, i really don't know what consistency they are talking about, also i got all nice results from my B&W films with all the developers i used so far, so what more i have to focus on for consistency if i get nice negs? or maybe there is something different i don't know about developing that i have to stick with 1 film and 1 developer to master, in fact i can't use only one film for everything for some reasons even i can push/pull film, i prefer to use a true box speed than use one film say 400 ASA/ISO and push it up to 3200 or pull it to 50, i want to push 1-2 stops maximum and not interested in pushing too much even i can get fine results, if by pushing i can get nice results on all ASA, then why producing all those iso different film then?
I use Epson V750 and it does a great job, but i want to get a dedicated film scanner if available, i feel my V750 doesn't give justice enough to my film and i know there are some areas not covered with scan by this scanner, film or drum scanner will give more details over it, so i hope to get a drum or film scanner then i will not care much to spend years to test each film with each developer to get my favorite consistency.
 
I like ADOX Borax (a D76 derivitive) which I mix myself, for 35mm, medium format, and large format. Works very well for me with -most- films.

When I need more true B&W speed, I like Delta 3200, which I process in DDX and I like that combo alot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top