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500cm question...

M

muggle

New Member
This is my first post and I'm a completely green! I inherited my dad's Hassy 500 cm and am anxious to try it out and learn as much as possible about it's capabilities.

I am also interested in learning about digital backs for this model. I've seen prices vary greatly for used backs and wonder if it's worth the investment.

Can you offer some quick advise?

Also, where can I find some basic tips to get me started.

Sorry for the newbie questions, but I have to start somewhere.
 
muggle said:
This is my first post and I'm a completely green! I inherited my dad's Hassy 500 cm and am anxious to try it out and learn as much as possible about it's capabilities.

I am also interested in learning about digital backs for this model. I've seen prices vary greatly for used backs and wonder if it's worth the investment.

Can you offer some quick advise?

Also, where can I find some basic tips to get me started.

Sorry for the newbie questions, but I have to start somewhere.
Click to expand...

Order a copy of the Hasselblad Manual by Ernst Wildi..5th edition...the 6th and now current 7th have more H system rather than "V" series, 500CM et al. A used 5th edition can be gotten from Amazon for ~$35.00. Your are really going to enjoy the 500CM. What do you have with the 500CM kit..film backs?..lenses?? etc.

Steve



Steve
 
If you do not have a manual for the camera you can download one at hasselblad.se
First register as a user and fill in the body number of the 500CM. That manual will get you started.
Of course the Wildi Book gives much more information about the Hasselblad system not just about the camera body lens and film back.
Steve is right. Early editions of the Wildi book give more information about V series cameras.
Pay attention to loading film as it is a bit against what seems logical at first sight.

If you could upload a picture of the kit it will be possible to help you with bellows etc.
To upload click the paperclip in the top bar and take it from there.

My guess is your camera is early seventies. The lens is the intermediate model C Planar: still in silver finish but already T* coated.
A nice lens to have and relatively rare.
Enjoy this camera it is an excellent way to get started.
 
Thanks! I tried to register the camera on the Hasselblad site, but it did not have my model in their system becuause it too old. I got past it buy selecting the 501c from the pull-down menu, instead. Strange that once I registered, I could not login. Don't know why.

I found the serial number and looked-up how to read the manufactured year. My camera was made in 1972! You were right, early seventies!!

Anyway, I found an owners manual online that someone scanned and I have printed it and read it, but your right, it's not very practical and I still don't understand some of the features.

I had found a YouTube video on how to load film -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=op6hDyMmkqA

I loaded my first role (400 kodak color negative) with no problems, and will shoot as soon as I figure out how to get a proper exposure - shutter speed, aperture setting. I don't understand how to "de-couple" the two, or if this is possible, or necessary. I have the old Gossen N100 light meter that came with it, but the batteries are dead. I have a new Sekonic that I will use. I think I found the "depth of field" preview button, but I'm not possitive.

I found a 5th edition of "The Hasselblad Manual" by Ersnt Wildl, on Amazon, and just ordered a copy!

So, I'm on the right path now.

Any other basic tips on how to set the exposure to get started are greatly appreciated, and I'm so excited to learn more and get started.

Regards, Ivan (muggle)
 
I suppose you do not want to wait till your copy of the Wildi book arrives so here is how to set the right aperture/shutter speed.
With C type lenses aperture and shutter speed are coupled to give you an opportunity to change the shutter/aperture setting without changing the exposure value of the film.
Faster shutterspeeds will give larger apertures and v.v.

To change that combination of exposure value or EV number move the ring of the lens closest to the camera towards the camera body and the coupling is set free.
You can now either change the aperture or move the shutter speed selector to the desired value.
On the lower end of the lens you see a selection of numbers in red.
These represent exposure value or shortly called EV.
Those numbers coincide with a certain amount of light for a given film. That gives a combination of aperture and shutter speed.

Avoid shutter speeds slower than 1/60 th when using the camera handheld.
It is possible to use slower speeds but that takes a little training and a special technique.
With 400 ISO film faster shutter speeds should be possible even when light levels are not so high.

Hasselblad cameras are quite practical. The only strange thing is the way films are loaded.
Films are wound off opposite to the way they are fitted to the supply spool. That may give rise to confusion especially for those who have not loaded a film back before.
 
How can you tell whether a chrome lens is T* or non-T*?
Do the coated lenses say T* somewhere on the lens?
 
Chrome "T*" coated lenses

There are only two focal lengths in chrome lenses that were supplied as intermediary T*models : 80 mm Planars and much rarer 50 mm Distagons.

There may be a number of non T* lenses that had front, rear or both elements changed during repairs for T*coated elements.

Most black C lenses are T* models.
Exceptions are found in the 40 mm, the 100 mm, the 150, the 350 and the 500 mm.
 
polypal said:
There are only two focal lengths in chrome lenses that were supplied as intermediary T*models : 80 mm Planars and much rarer 50 mm Distagons.

There may be a number of non T* lenses that had front, rear or both elements changed during repairs for T*coated elements.

Most black C lenses are T* models.
Exceptions are found in the 40 mm, the 100 mm, the 150, the 350 and the 500 mm.
Click to expand...

My black C Biogon is not T*...Is that true for all?

Steve
 
SWC too

Hi Steve,

I forgot about the SWC 38 mm Biogon lens. Yes there are a small number of black Biogon lenses without T*.
Improved coating has more effect with wide angle lenses.
Rumour tells there are a number of SWC cameras that have improved coating without being marked T*.
Even the earliest of these cameras the SWA from 1954 give excellent results.

Paul
 
polypal said:
Hi Steve,

I forgot about the SWC 38 mm Biogon lens. Yes there are a small number of black Biogon lenses without T*.
Improved coating has more effect with wide angle lenses.
Rumour tells there are a number of SWC cameras that have improved coating without being marked T*.
Even the earliest of these cameras the SWA from 1954 give excellent results.

Paul
Click to expand...

If all else fails go to Nordin.."Biogon was one of the first to get T* in 1973." My "Black" lens is not T* coated. By serial numbers, the lens was manufactured in 1971, the body, by year code, 1972 and the serial number falls well into the 1973 range.
 
Swc

The SWC camera was the first to receive a black anodised lens barrel in 1968.
The first SWC with T* coated Biogon lens was made in 1972.
I have a specimen of both cameras with these upgrades in my collection.

The first T* coated lens for Hasselblad I know of is a 80 mm Planar with lensnumber starting with 259 making it a pre production or prototype lens.
That lens came with an old abused ELM camera found at a camera fair in France.

Hasselblad production during the late sixties and early seventies was quite small.
It meant changes were not always logical as sometimes old stock was used to produce cameras that were already upgraded.
The last 1000F camera was produced in 1968, more than ten years after production had stopped!
 
Regrettably not!

Hello Jürgen,

The 1000F produced in 1968 is described in Rick Nordins Hasselblad compendium.
I regret that camera is not part of my collection.
It was sold to a member of Hasselblad staff.
No idea where this camera is now.

Paul
 
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