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3rd Party Lenses on X examples

KyleCassidy

KyleCassidy

New Member
Hi folks -- this comes up all the time so I thought I'd add some samples. These are a Nikon 135mm f2.8 on the X1D, the two studio ones are on a tripod, the outdoor one is handheld. The 135 has more rolling shutter than the Nikon 55 macro which I use a lot on the X. It's enough of a problem that I'd really recommend a tripod. Even when you think you're being steady there's sometimes a wobble which is easy to detect in side-by-side images. In the studio, as long as you're using hot lights and you're not in a hurry it's fine. I've use the 55mm hand-held a lot and don't think it's a problem, but the more telephoto ones are.

If you're going to get an X and thinking you're just going to use 3rd party lenses you're in for a world of hurt. I'd recommend getting one X lens just so you can use the flash and shoot quicker and then if there are specialty lenses you won't use a lot and can't justify spending $3,000 on then, by all means get yourself a $29 Nikon 135 f2.8. Lately too I've tried Mamiya 645 lenses and while they're slower, they don't vignette at the corners (and you can get a 135 f4 for $65).

Hope this helps. Happy to answer questions from people who want to know more.

Kyle

tl;dr: "other lenses work on the hasselblad X but they're more difficult to use and lack some useful features. You can use them, but you don't want to do it for everything."

xnikon2.jpg


xnikon1.jpg

xnikon3.jpg
 
KyleCassidy said:
The 135 has more rolling shutter than the Nikon 55 macro which I use a lot on the X.
Click to expand...
What?? What are you sayin'?
Sorry, but either you kiddin or you dont know what rolling shutter is.
NO lens has rolling shutter. RS is without exception a result from the electronic shutter and his low readout time.
Please inform you about the terms "electronic shutter" and "rolling shutter" and don't give us any good tips if you don't have basic knowledge.
 
Doc Steel said:
What?? What are you sayin'?
Sorry, but either you kiddin or you dont know what rolling shutter is.
NO lens has rolling shutter. RS is without exception a result from the electronic shutter and his low readout time.
Please inform you about the terms "electronic shutter" and "rolling shutter" and don't give us any good tips if you don't have basic knowledge.
Click to expand...
"rolling shutter effect" -- you can handhold wider lenses a lot easier than telephoto lenses with the e-shutter. the longer your lens, the more pronounced the effect. Try and be helpful in the forum Doc.
 
Doc Steel said:
please name a valid ressource of that what you claim.
Click to expand...
Thanks for asking -- happy to help out -- you can see how much the rolling shutter will effect your hand-holding by using the handy Rolling Shutter Safe Pan Speed Calculator here: https://www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/safe-pan-speed-calculator/ -- it's .7 degrees per second at 135mm and 1.7 degrees per second at 55mm with an X sensor. But just after using a few different lenses with the Hassey e-shutter you get a feel for what you can and can't do with it. It's easiest to notice after a few photos at longer focal lengths because people's heads start to look like potatoes. The rolling shutter effect occurs in digital cameras and smartphones (which are just digital cameras also) when they capture images or video by scanning the scene from top to bottom (or vice versa) rather than capturing the entire scene simultaneously (called a global shutter). This scanning process can lead to distortion when there is movement in the scene. Longer focal lengths magnify the effect because they narrow the field of view and make small movements in the scene more pronounced during the scanning process, causing more noticeable distortion in the final image or video. Hope this helps. We'd love to see some of your experiments with 3rd party lenses on the X system, it's a frequently asked question and examples -- both good and bad -- are super helpful to the members of the forum who are trying to figure out what they can and can't do with the system.
 
It's pointless to argue with you because you don't understand the most basic things. On top of that, you are confusing some terms.
 
Doc Steel said:
It's pointless to argue with you because you don't understand the most basic things. On top of that, you are confusing some terms.
Click to expand...
Why do you want to argue? Just post your third-party lens example images in the thread and help people out. If you have different experiences I'm sure people will find it valuable! Share your images and your knowledge with people who want to make more informed decisions (specifically here, about whether or not they can use third party lenses on their X cameras to do what they need to do.)
 
Some shots with Cooke Amotal, crop set to 24 x 36, all at f/5.6. Just some boat shots in the harbor.

B0001178rff.JPG
  • Hasselblad - X2D 100C
  • Unknown
  • 1/200 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • ISO 200


B0001179rff.JPG
  • Hasselblad - X2D 100C
  • Unknown
  • 1/144 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • ISO 100


B0001181rff.JPG
  • Hasselblad - X2D 100C
  • Unknown
  • 1/192 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • ISO 200
 
And here is what a Sonnar whose FOV covers the entire sensor looks like, in this case the Skyllaney Bertele 5cm f/2.0, both shot at f/5.6 in un-cropped mode, reduced in size with GIMP.

B0001309rff.JPG
  • Hasselblad - X2D 100C
  • Unknown
  • 1/2 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • ISO 3200


B0001313rff.JPG
  • Hasselblad - X2D 100C
  • Unknown
  • 1/2 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • ISO 3200
 
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