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2000FCW

Q.G.

Let me participate from your 2000FCW experience once more .
The mirror program axle/switch shows very clear click stops for the setting
to 0 , 1 , 2 on my camera . Perhaps this was changed during production and applies only for certain serial numbers . The serial number of my camera is RC1521604 .

An other thing i found is : the battery which came with the body was shurely somewhat old . All speeds work properly , but the 1/2000 sometimes finishes correctly and sometimes the curtains just stay open . (here the mechanical reset function shows to be of great help) . Replacing the battery shows , that the 1/2000 fires correctly every time .
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Jürgen,

I don't think they changed the click stops, just that our appreciation of how they set up this thing (marker on the axle, which needs to be set opposite one of three index marks, which - and that's the thing - are on the part that is removed when you set it...) differs.
wink.gif


I have yet to experience a low-battery phenomenon. So thank you for sharing what might happen!
Maybe i should keep the batteries in longer?

The problem is the expiration date printed on the the spares i keep (one keeps spares for any battery in use, right?) That, really, is what makes me change batteries. Seems like a waste to replace the spares without even having used them, doesn't it?
 
Jürgen:

I have found , what you mean by "RESET" the camera . In both instruction manuals (201F + 203FE) it can be found on page 6 just after the paragraph "Battery" , and it says simply , exactly as you described . " Wind the crank , after inserting the battery , open the crank and press the button in the middle of the crank , then do an other turn of the crank .>

Sorry for not addressing this sooner, but the paragraph on page 6 is in reference to getting started with a new camera and the procedure is for setting the shutter before mounting the lens.

The main purpose of the center button is to reset the shutter and not advancing the film for double or multiple exposures.

It can also be used to prevent wasting an exposure by setting the shutter and not advancing the film.

Good Luck with your test.

Regards:

Gilbert
 
Gilbert

Thank you for your contribution . The information you give , was worked out in this thread on earlier pages . Please see pages around February the 28th .

This "RESET" is obviously an important operation to do .
What i do not understand : why is this sentence not "HIGHLIGHTED" in the manuals (2000 and 200 series)
So , today i know , why the battery in my 201F drained completely just after 3 month time , sitting there and doing nothing , but consuming power .
uhoh.gif
happy.gif
 
On the 20th of march 2006 (see my last entry from the 18th of march 2006) i started the "test" with a new battery for each of my F-cameras , which are 201F , 2000FCW and 203FE .
I definately did a "reset cycle" with each camera .
Now , today i checked the shutter operation for all of them , and , ohhh surprise , the 2000FCW still works properly , the 203FE works properly and
uhoh.gif
the battery in the 201F is completely drained .
All batteries were new . I described the problem with the 201F earlier in this thread and the camera has been to HASSELBLAD service , when i discovered the problem years ago . But no problem was found . So there IS a problem . I will not send in the camera again , but remove the battery when the camera is not used .
Is there anyone , who has experienced the same problem ? ? ?
 
201f battery drain

jotloob said:
On the 20th of march 2006 (see my last entry from the 18th of march 2006) i started the "test" with a new battery for each of my F-cameras , which are 201F , 2000FCW and 203FE .
I definately did a "reset cycle" with each camera .
Now , today i checked the shutter operation for all of them , and , ohhh surprise , the 2000FCW still works properly , the 203FE works properly and
uhoh.gif
the battery in the 201F is completely drained .
All batteries were new . I described the problem with the 201F earlier in this thread and the camera has been to HASSELBLAD service , when i discovered the problem years ago . But no problem was found . So there IS a problem . I will not send in the camera again , but remove the battery when the camera is not used .
Is there anyone , who has experienced the same problem ? ? ?
Click to expand...


ULRIK

In response to your PM , all I can add is in this thread .
The issue , that the battery is drained , as described above , is not solved , but HASSELBLAD GERMANY could not find a problem .

Therefore I perform my own solution . I remove the battery whenever there is no need to have it inserted .

Nothing to add .

Jürgen
 
Foor 2000 cameras: A useful accessory, though a bit rare is the shutter speed multiplier which prolongs the exposure by 60x, i.e. 1s become 1 minute and so on. The 2000 series also has a larger mirror which was introduced very late in the 500 series. This means there is very little light loss with long lenses which is usually found on say 500 C/CM models e.g. Thesse cameras, if taken care of are usually extremely reliable. There is though one important rule. The thin titanium shutter can be damaged while changing magazines - so be careful. Should the worst happen and the tear is not too big a small patch of thin shutter cloth (observe as thin as possible) can be glued over the hole.

According to some reapirmen the FDW should rather not be used with the motr, opposite to the 200 series, since the mechanism doesn't take kindly to the motor when used over time.

I've also heard that the used lubrication is of specail type that usually doesn't need servicing. Should be some type of NASA high tech or similar stuff from what I remember. These cameras can without problem also be used in extreme cold - not just ssome lousy -20C but way colder.

Cheers,

Ronald
 
Later 2000 models starting with the FCW are quite strong and still function as they should provided they escaped the much feared shutter attack.

I own 5 of these 2000 cameras all of them in good working order.
Even the earliest 2000FC is a good user camera after a complete rebuilt by an experienced Hasselblad technician.
The FC is followed by a mint FC/M, two FCW cameras and the rare 2003FCW.
The 2003FCW was bought in unused condition and is without doubt top of the line.

I did not experience any difficulties with the 2000FCW bodies when used with a winder.
My 2000 cameras are only used on special occasions when the need for faster lenses was felt.

The little battery box prolonging the chosen shutterspeed with a factor 60 is part of my collection.
I used it several times for images made during night time.

Good to know there are new replacement shutter curtains available from a virtually fool proof material.
That makes the use of these remarkable cameras less of a risk.


Paul
 
polypal said:
Later 2000 models starting with the FCW are quite strong and still function as they should provided they escaped the much feared shutter attack.

I own 5 of these 2000 cameras all of them in good working order.
Even the earliest 2000FC is a good user camera after a complete rebuilt by an experienced Hasselblad technician.
The FC is followed by a mint FC/M, two FCW cameras and the rare 2003FCW.
The 2003FCW was bought in unused condition and is without doubt top of the line.

I did not experience any difficulties with the 2000FCW bodies when used with a winder.
My 2000 cameras are only used on special occasions when the need for faster lenses was felt.

The little battery box prolonging the chosen shutterspeed with a factor 60 is part of my collection.
I used it several times for images made during night time.

Good to know there are new replacement shutter curtains available from a virtually fool proof material.
That makes the use of these remarkable cameras less of a risk.


Paul
Click to expand...

Which repairfacilities has this "special" cloth?

I have only two 2000 bodies. I got first as my first Hasselblad actually. It served me really well in outdoor/landscape photography and I have often used the higher shutterspeeds for small depth of field and in cases for handholding while shooting moving subjects. I find using the higher aperture lenses a real bonus in low light situations - focusing is so much easier. I got so much addicted to the F lenses that I still haven't got a C-lens. They are very nice for landscape and close focusing. I also found that the shutterspeeds hold what Hasselblad promises - reliable spot on speeds.

The shutter speed mu.ltiplier is really great to use for night photography - I used it for Aurora Borealis and other night photos. Now its not need much since I do much shooting with my 202.

By the way is the only upgrade of 2003 vs 2000 FCW the Acute Matte screen or are there other improvements in design?

Cheers,

Ronald
 
2000 series new shutters

The new shutters are made of of special cloth and allow for 1/2000 s shutterspeed provided the camera mechanics are still up to that.
If you need more information please contact me with a pm.

The 2003FCW is basically a 2000FCW with Palpas antireflection coating and an Acute Matte screen fitted as standard.
Rick Nordin estimates only 2000 2003FCW cameras were made.
Compare that with rare Leica cameras. There were at least 30.000 of those.

Keep in mind I use and collect Hasselblad cameras.
That is the reason I have a few more 2000 cameras.

Gr,
Paul
 
Thanks for reminding me of the palpas clothing - I had forgotten that.

As for collecting - you still have some cameras to get - they were all made in chrome respectively black finish :)

Do all of the 2000/2003 have the same "nice" sound when releasing the shutter. I found that the new 200 series is much more quiet than the 2000 cameras clunk (at least my FC and FC/M). I have still not found any difference in terms of ratio of unsharp vs sharp handheld pictures from the 200 vs the 2000 cameras so whether the damping makes for substantially less vibrations would be nice to know.

I also find the shutter release to be more convenient on the 200 cameras. However with an accessory thickset extra button (screw in soft release) this is overcome on the 2000 cameras.

However with that said, since I'm not as much a collector as you are the 2000 cameras are wonderful picture taking machines which apart from the fragile shutter have been wonders of reliability in harsh environments. For me they been through most bad environments from very, very, cold to humid tropical conditions and just worked.

Yes, I'd like a PM about the shutter cloth.

Cheers,

Ronald
 
Sharp/unsharp when used handheld is for the larger part due to a steady/unsteady hand of the operator.
The shutter does not have much influence here.
Shutter vibration is more likely to act when using a tripod.

I guess part of the typical noise of a 2000 camera is due to the metal curtains of the camera.
Couls be the later 200 series have a better system for absorbing the noise.

If I were to get all different 2000 bodies I need to get at least two more.
Never seen a black 2000 FC body.
That would mean another one to llok for.
I have hardly any black cameras or film backs in my collection.
The 2000 FCW I got came as a black body and was converted to chrome using a new body shell.
Black bodies suffer from paint loss and are therefore not very appealing to me.


Paul
 
Black 2000 FC bodies were not uncommon in Sweden. I have one as well as a black 2000 FC/M. Its right that the black paint might get damaged but nice cameras still resurface from time to time. However, the all black cameras are more unobtrusive in the woods wherefore i prefer black, though my 202FA is in chrome.

One nice feature on 2000 and 200 cameras (except for the 202 FA) is the interlock of aperture and shutter speed making it possible to change depth of field (aperture) without changing EV. This is the one thing I miss most on the 202 FA. Haven't got the courage and funding to upgrade to a 203. With that saying my 202 has been a great camera. As with lenses, to cite Paul, Hasselblad never made any bad cameras. just made some cameras better. The build quality is usually outstanding in the camera world.


Ronald
 
The aperture shutter interlock doesn't exist on the 203 or 205. Only the 2000 series and the 201f. I don't understand why.

Terry
 
terrydent said:
The aperture shutter interlock doesn't exist on the 203 or 205. Only the 2000 series and the 201f. I don't understand why.

Terry
Click to expand...

You're sure? Then I don't see any reason to upgrade to the 203 other than for using C lenses and auto-exposure.

Thanks for the info.

Ronald
 
The 203 gives auto exposure which can be quite interesting provided you keep an eye on slow shutter speeds.
It also gives excellent flash control and slow shutter speeds up to 34 minutes.
It gives you a chance to average several manual readings for light measurement.
Enough reasons to want a good 203Fe body. They are increasing in value!
All 2000 bodies allow the use of C series lenses.
There is only one body that is not suitable for use with C sereis lenses the 202FA.
All other focal plane bodies allow the use of C lenses.

Paul
 
polypal said:
The 203 gives auto exposure which can be quite interesting provided you keep an eye on slow shutter speeds.
It also gives excellent flash control and slow shutter speeds up to 34 minutes.
It gives you a chance to average several manual readings for light measurement.
Enough reasons to want a good 203Fe body. They are increasing in value!
All 2000 bodies allow the use of C series lenses.
There is only one body that is not suitable for use with C sereis lenses the 202FA.
All other focal plane bodies allow the use of C lenses.

Paul
Click to expand...

Yes thats true, only 202 is not fond of C lenses. There have been during the years people who claimed they could use C-lenses with 202 and people who claimed that it wasn't possible. There even was at one time a document on the Hasselblad webpage giving instructions about using C lenses with 202 bodies but i don't remember the exact details. I'll probably just use my 2000 bodies the day I get a C lense or a CF while using central-shutter.


Apart from "zone measurements" is are there differences between the 202 and the 203 when it comes to flash measurements as well?

The shutter speed range differs only at the very topmost speed. The 202 goes from 34 min to 1/1000 of a second.
 
polarcircle said:
(...)

One nice feature on 2000 and 200 cameras (except for the 202 FA) is the interlock of aperture and shutter speed making it possible to change depth of field (aperture) without changing EV. This is the one thing I miss most on the 202 FA. Haven't got the courage and funding to upgrade to a 203. With that saying my 202 has been a great camera. As with lenses, to cite Paul, Hasselblad never made any bad cameras. just made some cameras better. The build quality is usually outstanding in the camera world.


Ronald
Click to expand...
If you use E lenses (cfe or FE) in D mode, you have the electronic interlock as well.
I explained how to use C lenses on 202 for crazy poeple (you need the mecanical delay struff !), but no ! you can't realy use C lenses on 202 !
I used 202 for years, very happy with it, and you cann get one for half price of an 203FE.
Anyway I wait my "new" digital modified 203FE baught last week and still at the post office.

I have a black 2000CF/M too, a great camera as well.
By the way I use the winder too. It works great for portrait time. Not for the speed (a frame per sec.) but to be able to rewind without loosing the focussing.
With the 203 and removable winder at home, it will be possible to sell:
my ELD ELX Ci and probably the 2000FC/M
The spare 202FA will be the lonly one to justify my 3 "E" backs...until a got a CFV !
 
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