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2000FCW
- Thread starter jotloob
- Start date
Jürgen,
First, congratulations. Great cameras.
It takes a PX28 (or equivalent type) 6 Volt battery.
One battery would last for at least 20.000 exposures. If only you would manage to get that many exposures before the battery drained all by itself...
The camera's basic functions are quite simple.
The most important bit is not to damage the shutter curtains.
To help you not do that, the first curtain will retract ('fire') when you remove the magazine.
A 'feeler' button on the rear, next to the upper magazine hook, is responsible for that.
However, when you fire the shutter with the magazine off, or reset the shutter, the curtains will appear again. What ever you do: do not touch them!
Linked to this is the need to reset the curtain before (!!!) you remove the darkslide from a newly attached magazine.
Forget that, and you may waste a frame. So always remember to do this.
---
Next, the battery.
With the shutterspeed ring set to "C", it will not need one. The focal plane shutter will work like the auxillary shutter in the 500-series machines, and you will need shuttered lenses to get timed exposures.
Always make sure the camera is in the 'ready'-state before inserting a battery. If you don't, the battery will drain rather fast until you do reset the camera.
---
You reset the camera by pushing in the disk visible in the center of the wind crank during the first bit of the rotation.
When you do, the camera is reset, but the film in the magazine is not trasnported. So you can use this to do double exposures too.
---
The shutter speed ring can be set to all click-stops, also those in between the ones with numbers. When set, for instance, between "125" and "250", the shutter will use the speed that's in between these two.
All click-stops, except the ones between "1" and "B", and between "B" and "C". How the camera will behave when you do appears to differ between production runs, but it will not result in something you want (my FCW's lock the shutter open when released with the ring set between "1" and "B", only to close when i move the shutterspeed ring to either "B" or "1". And act as if set to "B" or "C" when set between these two settings. I don't know which).
There is a little lever on the camera's left, above the battery compartment. When set to "O", the shutterspeed ring is free to move, Set to "L" (for "lock"), it is locked. This is usefull when using the shutter in shuttered lenses, with the camera's shutterspeed ring set to "C".
---
When using the shutter in shuttered lenses, the shutterspeed ring must be set to "C".
When using the focal plane shutter with shuttered lenses, the shutterspeed ring should of course be set to the speed you need to use. The shutterspeed ring of the lens must then be set to "F" (on CF and later lenses), or to "B" (on "C" lenses).
---
When using flash, make sure hat you connect the synch cord to the shutter that is in use: to the PC-terminal on the body when using the focal plane shutter, to the PC-terminal on the lens when using the shutter in the lens.
The focal plane shutter will 'synch' with all speeds up to 1/90 (marked "X" on the shutterspeed ring).
When you set a faster speed, the flash will not fire. So if it doesn't, don't start by loking for badly connected, or broken synch cables, or faulty flash units, but check the shutterspeed ring first.
---
You can remove the wind crank (push the metal tab down, not towards the camera, and rotate anticlockwise).
When you do, you reveal the bayonet mount used by the winder.
But you then also can program the mirror. You will notice there is a red dot on the axle, and numbers 1 through 3 on the crank. The numbers correspond to the mirror movement:
- 0: the mirror goes up, and stays up until you reprogram the thing (this is real "mirror lock up". People often call mirror prerelease that, but this is the one and only real thing).
- 1: the mirror moves up when you release the camera, and stays there. It comes down again when you turn the wind crank. Just like the mirror in 500-series cameras.
- 2: the mirror goes up, and comes down again: instant return mirror.
To program the mirror, you have to remove the crank, pull out the axle, rotate it, and let it go back in again. When you do, you'll notice there are no clear click stops, nor is there an indication of at what setting it is. So it's a bit of a trial-and-error thing.
You can use any setting any time, i.e. it doesn't matter what type of lens you are using, or anything. It's up to you.
---
Do not (!!!) attach a Hasselblad Polaroid 80 back. It has a glass plate that protrudes enough to damage the shutter curtains beyond repair.
Polaroid 100 (and later) backs have a glass plate too, but are safe.
---
Changing lenses, viewfinders, magazines, etc., is the same as with other Hasselblads.
First, congratulations. Great cameras.
It takes a PX28 (or equivalent type) 6 Volt battery.
One battery would last for at least 20.000 exposures. If only you would manage to get that many exposures before the battery drained all by itself...
The camera's basic functions are quite simple.
The most important bit is not to damage the shutter curtains.
To help you not do that, the first curtain will retract ('fire') when you remove the magazine.
A 'feeler' button on the rear, next to the upper magazine hook, is responsible for that.
However, when you fire the shutter with the magazine off, or reset the shutter, the curtains will appear again. What ever you do: do not touch them!
Linked to this is the need to reset the curtain before (!!!) you remove the darkslide from a newly attached magazine.
Forget that, and you may waste a frame. So always remember to do this.
---
Next, the battery.
With the shutterspeed ring set to "C", it will not need one. The focal plane shutter will work like the auxillary shutter in the 500-series machines, and you will need shuttered lenses to get timed exposures.
Always make sure the camera is in the 'ready'-state before inserting a battery. If you don't, the battery will drain rather fast until you do reset the camera.
---
You reset the camera by pushing in the disk visible in the center of the wind crank during the first bit of the rotation.
When you do, the camera is reset, but the film in the magazine is not trasnported. So you can use this to do double exposures too.
---
The shutter speed ring can be set to all click-stops, also those in between the ones with numbers. When set, for instance, between "125" and "250", the shutter will use the speed that's in between these two.
All click-stops, except the ones between "1" and "B", and between "B" and "C". How the camera will behave when you do appears to differ between production runs, but it will not result in something you want (my FCW's lock the shutter open when released with the ring set between "1" and "B", only to close when i move the shutterspeed ring to either "B" or "1". And act as if set to "B" or "C" when set between these two settings. I don't know which).
There is a little lever on the camera's left, above the battery compartment. When set to "O", the shutterspeed ring is free to move, Set to "L" (for "lock"), it is locked. This is usefull when using the shutter in shuttered lenses, with the camera's shutterspeed ring set to "C".
---
When using the shutter in shuttered lenses, the shutterspeed ring must be set to "C".
When using the focal plane shutter with shuttered lenses, the shutterspeed ring should of course be set to the speed you need to use. The shutterspeed ring of the lens must then be set to "F" (on CF and later lenses), or to "B" (on "C" lenses).
---
When using flash, make sure hat you connect the synch cord to the shutter that is in use: to the PC-terminal on the body when using the focal plane shutter, to the PC-terminal on the lens when using the shutter in the lens.
The focal plane shutter will 'synch' with all speeds up to 1/90 (marked "X" on the shutterspeed ring).
When you set a faster speed, the flash will not fire. So if it doesn't, don't start by loking for badly connected, or broken synch cables, or faulty flash units, but check the shutterspeed ring first.
---
You can remove the wind crank (push the metal tab down, not towards the camera, and rotate anticlockwise).
When you do, you reveal the bayonet mount used by the winder.
But you then also can program the mirror. You will notice there is a red dot on the axle, and numbers 1 through 3 on the crank. The numbers correspond to the mirror movement:
- 0: the mirror goes up, and stays up until you reprogram the thing (this is real "mirror lock up". People often call mirror prerelease that, but this is the one and only real thing).
- 1: the mirror moves up when you release the camera, and stays there. It comes down again when you turn the wind crank. Just like the mirror in 500-series cameras.
- 2: the mirror goes up, and comes down again: instant return mirror.
To program the mirror, you have to remove the crank, pull out the axle, rotate it, and let it go back in again. When you do, you'll notice there are no clear click stops, nor is there an indication of at what setting it is. So it's a bit of a trial-and-error thing.
You can use any setting any time, i.e. it doesn't matter what type of lens you are using, or anything. It's up to you.
---
Do not (!!!) attach a Hasselblad Polaroid 80 back. It has a glass plate that protrudes enough to damage the shutter curtains beyond repair.
Polaroid 100 (and later) backs have a glass plate too, but are safe.
---
Changing lenses, viewfinders, magazines, etc., is the same as with other Hasselblads.
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Q.G.
Thank you very much for your extremely good and extensive answer . I will print it out and keep , also when i get a copy of an instruction manual from LINDEMANNS in Stuttgart .
So the battery is the same as the ones for the 201F 203F and 205FCC .
Some of the functions , you describe are the same or at least very similar to the functions of my 201F and 203FE .
Others of course are new to me , especially the description for precaution with the curtains . I will study all details very carefully and handle the camera the same way . I will give you a report of my first experience . Thanks again and have a nice weekend .
I am very pleased .
Thank you very much for your extremely good and extensive answer . I will print it out and keep , also when i get a copy of an instruction manual from LINDEMANNS in Stuttgart .
So the battery is the same as the ones for the 201F 203F and 205FCC .
Some of the functions , you describe are the same or at least very similar to the functions of my 201F and 203FE .
Others of course are new to me , especially the description for precaution with the curtains . I will study all details very carefully and handle the camera the same way . I will give you a report of my first experience . Thanks again and have a nice weekend .
I am very pleased .
Hi Q.G.,
>Always make sure the camera is in the 'ready'-state before inserting a > battery. If you don't, the battery will drain rather fast until you do
> reset the camera.
What is your source for this information? Learn something new every day !
In near two decades of using the 2000/3 FCW I've never heard this mentioned, nor have I seen it in any documentation. Perhaps I saw it an d simply deemed it unimportant when reading it?
Regards,
Austin
>Always make sure the camera is in the 'ready'-state before inserting a > battery. If you don't, the battery will drain rather fast until you do
> reset the camera.
What is your source for this information? Learn something new every day !
In near two decades of using the 2000/3 FCW I've never heard this mentioned, nor have I seen it in any documentation. Perhaps I saw it an d simply deemed it unimportant when reading it?
Regards,
Austin
Hello Austin,
You've never seen the manual, nor Wildi's version(s) of the same?
It's in both.
Jürgen,
I have to correct myself: i said the battery might last for 20,000 exposures. That's clearly wrong.
In Hasselblad tests it was shown that one battery might last for 300,000 exposures. Sorry!
You might have mentioned that you already know how to operate 201 and 203 cameras. You then obviously know some of this stuff already.
Mind you, a battery in a 203 does not last nearly as long as one in an FCW.
You've never seen the manual, nor Wildi's version(s) of the same?
It's in both.
Jürgen,
I have to correct myself: i said the battery might last for 20,000 exposures. That's clearly wrong.
In Hasselblad tests it was shown that one battery might last for 300,000 exposures. Sorry!
You might have mentioned that you already know how to operate 201 and 203 cameras. You then obviously know some of this stuff already.
Mind you, a battery in a 203 does not last nearly as long as one in an FCW.
Hi Q.G.,
> You've never seen the manual, nor Wildi's version(s) of the same?
Is it the same for the 2003? I'm not sure I have a manual for a 2000FC/ W, but I do for a 2003, and no I haven't seen this information in the manual that I remember.
I personally don't find Wildi's book that useful a resource. Having use d a 2000FC/W and a 2003FC/W for over a decade, I never ran into a situation where the battery drained inordinately quickly, so this was never an issue
for me. And, being an EE, I can't imagine why someone would design thei r electronics to operate like that. Do you happen to have the schematics for the 2000FC/W?
Regards,
Austin
> You've never seen the manual, nor Wildi's version(s) of the same?
Is it the same for the 2003? I'm not sure I have a manual for a 2000FC/ W, but I do for a 2003, and no I haven't seen this information in the manual that I remember.
I personally don't find Wildi's book that useful a resource. Having use d a 2000FC/W and a 2003FC/W for over a decade, I never ran into a situation where the battery drained inordinately quickly, so this was never an issue
for me. And, being an EE, I can't imagine why someone would design thei r electronics to operate like that. Do you happen to have the schematics for the 2000FC/W?
Regards,
Austin
jotloob
Well-Known Member
When I bought my 201F in 1994 (the year it came on the market)
I had as the first F lens the SONNAR F 2,8/150 and inserted a brand new battery . I exposed about 10 rolls of film , also using my PLANAR CF 2,8/80 in "C" and "F" mode . Then I stored the camera in "C" mode and did not use it for about 8 weeks , because at that time , i began using my 4x5 inch camera . Now came the big surprise . When i tried to use the 201F again , the battery was empty . I had a call with HASSELBLAD service people , and they asked me to send in the camera , because that should not happen . The outcome was , that they did not find anything wrong .
Now , since then , I put the camera in "C" mode and remove the battery , when I do not use the camera . I do the very same with my 203FE .
I could not find any hint , how to store the camera (with or without battery) when you do not use it . Not in the 201F nor in the 203FE instruction manuals .
Is there any recommended procedure ? ? ?
I had as the first F lens the SONNAR F 2,8/150 and inserted a brand new battery . I exposed about 10 rolls of film , also using my PLANAR CF 2,8/80 in "C" and "F" mode . Then I stored the camera in "C" mode and did not use it for about 8 weeks , because at that time , i began using my 4x5 inch camera . Now came the big surprise . When i tried to use the 201F again , the battery was empty . I had a call with HASSELBLAD service people , and they asked me to send in the camera , because that should not happen . The outcome was , that they did not find anything wrong .
Now , since then , I put the camera in "C" mode and remove the battery , when I do not use the camera . I do the very same with my 203FE .
I could not find any hint , how to store the camera (with or without battery) when you do not use it . Not in the 201F nor in the 203FE instruction manuals .
Is there any recommended procedure ? ? ?
Austin,
I don't really know about the 2003, i only have 2000 FCWs. Nor do i have a 2003 manual.
I do have schematics for the 2000 FC. I'll scan the thing and post it later.
The electronics were designed so to limit the drain on the battery.
The shutter mechanism makes us of magnets to release each curtain. These mnagnets draw a large current at the moment the shutter is released.
To minimize the risk of damage to the battery, and to make sure that even nearly depleted batteries will provide enough power to make the thing work, they do not draw the current needed from the battery directly, but activate the magnets by short high current pulses from two capcitors. The capacitors are charged through resistors limiting the charge current.
So instead of putting a short high current drain load on the battery, there is a prolonged (1/10 sec), low current drain.
Now i am not an EE, and i can only guess whether this high current burst vs low current drain has anything to do with the advise not to put a battery into a released camera, or not. Maybe the schematics will tell you more.
I haven't noticed any battery issue with my cameras either. Could be, of course, because i do not change batteries very often (how often do you do that?). Though, thinking about it, i do switch battery for shutterspeed multiplier, and back again, now and again.
And could be because of having settled well and truly in the Hasselblad routine of winding immediately after exposure (i had to 'restart' intentional double exposures quite a few times becomes i unthinkingly wound the camera after the first exposure).
But then...
With one battery being good for about 300,000 exposures, how are we to notice a sharp reduction in battery life?
I think Wildi's book are a great resource for anyone having a Hasselblad, but not a manual, nor years of using Hasselblads before. The Wildi "Manual" is often better, even, than the booklet you get with a Hasselblad.
Jürgen,
I never even think about the battery when using these cameras. I put them away the way i last used them. Never had any problem.
There is a real new-camera-battery phenomenon, that fits your experience. Though, of course, i do not know whether this indeed applies to your situation (and i rather suspect it does not).
People tend to 'try' newly acquired things quite a bit, before they start using it. And then notice how, after only a low number of times that the thing is used 'for real', the battery is flat. Somehow, the pre-use play is disregarded, and only the number of times of real-use is counted.
The last time this phenomenon occured on a large scale was when the Contax 645 was released for sale. Now that camera does indeed need lots of batteries. But even so, the reports about battery use that flooded the internet and other media then were hugely exagerated. The new-camera-battery phenomenon...
With batteries lasting that very long in 2000-series cameras (i'm not sure, but think they last equally long in a 201 F), it is indeed not very likely that you used up the battery playing before exposing those 10 rolls. So it must have been something else.
I don't really know about the 2003, i only have 2000 FCWs. Nor do i have a 2003 manual.
I do have schematics for the 2000 FC. I'll scan the thing and post it later.
The electronics were designed so to limit the drain on the battery.
The shutter mechanism makes us of magnets to release each curtain. These mnagnets draw a large current at the moment the shutter is released.
To minimize the risk of damage to the battery, and to make sure that even nearly depleted batteries will provide enough power to make the thing work, they do not draw the current needed from the battery directly, but activate the magnets by short high current pulses from two capcitors. The capacitors are charged through resistors limiting the charge current.
So instead of putting a short high current drain load on the battery, there is a prolonged (1/10 sec), low current drain.
Now i am not an EE, and i can only guess whether this high current burst vs low current drain has anything to do with the advise not to put a battery into a released camera, or not. Maybe the schematics will tell you more.
I haven't noticed any battery issue with my cameras either. Could be, of course, because i do not change batteries very often (how often do you do that?). Though, thinking about it, i do switch battery for shutterspeed multiplier, and back again, now and again.
And could be because of having settled well and truly in the Hasselblad routine of winding immediately after exposure (i had to 'restart' intentional double exposures quite a few times becomes i unthinkingly wound the camera after the first exposure).
But then...
With one battery being good for about 300,000 exposures, how are we to notice a sharp reduction in battery life?
I think Wildi's book are a great resource for anyone having a Hasselblad, but not a manual, nor years of using Hasselblads before. The Wildi "Manual" is often better, even, than the booklet you get with a Hasselblad.
Jürgen,
I never even think about the battery when using these cameras. I put them away the way i last used them. Never had any problem.
There is a real new-camera-battery phenomenon, that fits your experience. Though, of course, i do not know whether this indeed applies to your situation (and i rather suspect it does not).
People tend to 'try' newly acquired things quite a bit, before they start using it. And then notice how, after only a low number of times that the thing is used 'for real', the battery is flat. Somehow, the pre-use play is disregarded, and only the number of times of real-use is counted.
The last time this phenomenon occured on a large scale was when the Contax 645 was released for sale. Now that camera does indeed need lots of batteries. But even so, the reports about battery use that flooded the internet and other media then were hugely exagerated. The new-camera-battery phenomenon...
With batteries lasting that very long in 2000-series cameras (i'm not sure, but think they last equally long in a 201 F), it is indeed not very likely that you used up the battery playing before exposing those 10 rolls. So it must have been something else.
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Q.G.
I am surprised , delighted and amuzed about your last contribution .
(regarding your treasures about HASSELBLAD details) Thank you .
I do not understand very much about electronic circuitry , but i assume that the electronic for the 201F does not vary very much from the one you displayed .
This plus your experience about the battery lifetime in the camera , tells me , i should not get such a severe loss of battery power as i described above .
And it brings me to an idea . I have a little special shop , just around the corner . The guy just deals with batteries , accus and chargers . Nothing else .
I could make a new test , buy a new battery and insert it in my 201F , do a hundred camera releases and then just see if the camera still fires after 2 month storage time .
If I do so , I will open a new thread .
I am surprised , delighted and amuzed about your last contribution .
(regarding your treasures about HASSELBLAD details) Thank you .
I do not understand very much about electronic circuitry , but i assume that the electronic for the 201F does not vary very much from the one you displayed .
This plus your experience about the battery lifetime in the camera , tells me , i should not get such a severe loss of battery power as i described above .
And it brings me to an idea . I have a little special shop , just around the corner . The guy just deals with batteries , accus and chargers . Nothing else .
I could make a new test , buy a new battery and insert it in my 201F , do a hundred camera releases and then just see if the camera still fires after 2 month storage time .
If I do so , I will open a new thread .
Cold weather will take its toll on any battery's ability to power a device. As I use my Hasselblad cameras primarily for astrophotography, the cameras are exposed in the cold night air, they cool off very quickly, and I usually need to use heaters on the lenses to prevent condensation (dew). When I am taking relatively short exposures that require the battery (with or without the multiplier) I find that the battery's life is not that long. Or at least, the camera stops firing, as the battery can not supply the demands of the electronics at this point. Now, this is an extreme case, so I wouldn't worry about battery live in the 2000FCW, etc. unless i was shooting in cold weather often. And I believe this is why Hasselblad even developed the external battery pack, that you can keep in your pocket, or other warm place, while using the camera.
Taras
Taras
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Q.G.
I have found , what you mean by "RESET" the camera . In both instruction manuals (201F + 203FE) it can be found on page 6 just after the paragraph "Battery" , and it says simply , exactly as you described . " Wind the crank , after inserting the battery , open the crank and press the botton in the middle of the crank , then do an other turn of the crank . It is not mentioned , that this is a "RESET" function , but it is exactly what you say . I have never ever done so , because i simply have never read that sentence . So my 201F sits here "resetted" and i will be watching what happens . I visited a friend today , who uses a 2000FCW and he never had any loss of battery power .
So you gave me the decisive hint . Thank you .
I have found , what you mean by "RESET" the camera . In both instruction manuals (201F + 203FE) it can be found on page 6 just after the paragraph "Battery" , and it says simply , exactly as you described . " Wind the crank , after inserting the battery , open the crank and press the botton in the middle of the crank , then do an other turn of the crank . It is not mentioned , that this is a "RESET" function , but it is exactly what you say . I have never ever done so , because i simply have never read that sentence . So my 201F sits here "resetted" and i will be watching what happens . I visited a friend today , who uses a 2000FCW and he never had any loss of battery power .
So you gave me the decisive hint . Thank you .
Jürgen,
I had a look in the 201 F manual (not that i don't believe you), and am (still) somewhat puzzled. There, you are indeed told to 'reset' the camera "nachdem"/after (!!!) you insert the battery.
That goes against the advise in the 2000-series manuals, and against Wildi. So i guess it doesn't really matter when exactly you reset the camera, before or after inserting the battery, as long as a fresh battery isn't inserted in a camera that is left (!) (partly) released for a longer while.
More about the 'reset' function is on page 16 of the 201 F manual, where the double exposure procedure is described.
This procedure was (and is) a multi-purpose thing. Apart from multiple exposures, it has always been a reset thing too. For instance, when a battery runs down, the camera only partly releases, and you need a way to get back to 'normal'. Or when you prerelease the camera, and change your mind. Or when you use an old C-lens, and that thing happens to jam (you cannot reach in through the back to turn a screw. There even isn't a screw to turn). Or when you have removed a back from a FC/M or FCW. Or when 200-series cameras play up, this resetting thing works.
I had a look in the 201 F manual (not that i don't believe you), and am (still) somewhat puzzled. There, you are indeed told to 'reset' the camera "nachdem"/after (!!!) you insert the battery.
That goes against the advise in the 2000-series manuals, and against Wildi. So i guess it doesn't really matter when exactly you reset the camera, before or after inserting the battery, as long as a fresh battery isn't inserted in a camera that is left (!) (partly) released for a longer while.
More about the 'reset' function is on page 16 of the 201 F manual, where the double exposure procedure is described.
This procedure was (and is) a multi-purpose thing. Apart from multiple exposures, it has always been a reset thing too. For instance, when a battery runs down, the camera only partly releases, and you need a way to get back to 'normal'. Or when you prerelease the camera, and change your mind. Or when you use an old C-lens, and that thing happens to jam (you cannot reach in through the back to turn a screw. There even isn't a screw to turn). Or when you have removed a back from a FC/M or FCW. Or when 200-series cameras play up, this resetting thing works.
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Q.G.
Looking at the switching diagram you supplied , i come to the conclusion , that the state of one switch , or a combination of the switches in the circuitry will cause a drain to the battery if there is no "mechanical" reset done . This "reset" obviously puts the switches into a state that no current can flow . Therefore it looks to me much more logical , that the battery shall be inserted AFTER the "mechanical" reset is done . Why this is described the other way round in the 201F (203FE) manual , i do not understand .
But , at least , we know now , how to prevent a loss of battery power . 2 ways , the one obviously better than the other .
Looking at the switching diagram you supplied , i come to the conclusion , that the state of one switch , or a combination of the switches in the circuitry will cause a drain to the battery if there is no "mechanical" reset done . This "reset" obviously puts the switches into a state that no current can flow . Therefore it looks to me much more logical , that the battery shall be inserted AFTER the "mechanical" reset is done . Why this is described the other way round in the 201F (203FE) manual , i do not understand .
But , at least , we know now , how to prevent a loss of battery power . 2 ways , the one obviously better than the other .
Jürgen,
Could be, yes.
The various switches are needed (among other things) to synchronize the release of the shutter curtains with the different stages of the mechanical release cycle. This synchronisation is different in C- and B-modes (early and late switches).
In all modes, the late release switch makes, and stays made until the camera is retensioned.
Maybe that has anything to do with it?
I don't like reading schematics, nor electronics, so i don't have a clue..
Could be, yes.
The various switches are needed (among other things) to synchronize the release of the shutter curtains with the different stages of the mechanical release cycle. This synchronisation is different in C- and B-modes (early and late switches).
In all modes, the late release switch makes, and stays made until the camera is retensioned.
Maybe that has anything to do with it?
I don't like reading schematics, nor electronics, so i don't have a clue..
Original manual for the 2000FCW:
The ones I have for my 2000FCW's are in Swedish language, but I can scan them and send them to you if you want. Just tell me.
On the net you download the manuals for the older 2000FC and 201F also (english).
Use name: free
Password: manuals
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/manuals/pages/Hassy2000FC.pdf
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/manuals/pages/Hassy201F.pdf
The ones I have for my 2000FCW's are in Swedish language, but I can scan them and send them to you if you want. Just tell me.
On the net you download the manuals for the older 2000FC and 201F also (english).
Use name: free
Password: manuals
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/manuals/pages/Hassy2000FC.pdf
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/manuals/pages/Hassy201F.pdf
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Christian
Thanks for your kind offer and the links . I will get a reprinted version of the 2000FCW instruction manual in german language in a couple of days .
Also , Rick Nordin kindly mailed me a PDF version for the 2000FC .
Thank you very much Rick .
The 2000FCW manual will shurely not differ very much from the 2000FC one , except of the winder part of course .
For my 201F and 203FE I have the original instruction manuals .
Thanks for your kind offer and the links . I will get a reprinted version of the 2000FCW instruction manual in german language in a couple of days .
Also , Rick Nordin kindly mailed me a PDF version for the 2000FC .
Thank you very much Rick .
The 2000FCW manual will shurely not differ very much from the 2000FC one , except of the winder part of course .
For my 201F and 203FE I have the original instruction manuals .
Jürgen
FYI: I just found this website on Google and it shows a reprint for a 2003, 2000 FCW manual.
http://http://www.mapbid.com/awgmapsearch.cfm?search_text=hasselblad&catid=&searchdesc=0&isG=yes&AC=1&SID=hasselblad
Good Luck:
Gilbert
P.S. I have never used or saw this sight until a few minutes ago. So, plese use caution.
FYI: I just found this website on Google and it shows a reprint for a 2003, 2000 FCW manual.
http://http://www.mapbid.com/awgmapsearch.cfm?search_text=hasselblad&catid=&searchdesc=0&isG=yes&AC=1&SID=hasselblad
Good Luck:
Gilbert
P.S. I have never used or saw this sight until a few minutes ago. So, plese use caution.
jotloob
Well-Known Member
Thanks Gilbert
I know , there are a couple of "reprinters" serving the increasing demand for instruction manuals , when the original is lost or kept by collectors .
(some are also available on CD)
The disadvantage of some reprints is the lousy paper and print quality .
I have ordered a german copy for the 2000FCW , but have not got it yet . Hopefully the paper and print will be good .
I know , there are a couple of "reprinters" serving the increasing demand for instruction manuals , when the original is lost or kept by collectors .
(some are also available on CD)
The disadvantage of some reprints is the lousy paper and print quality .
I have ordered a german copy for the 2000FCW , but have not got it yet . Hopefully the paper and print will be good .