Hasselblad SWC/M Delayed Shutter Release

[Edwired]

Hi guys,

Recently I bought a bargain SWC/M from but it's got some faults. The camera suffers from shutter issues that were not disclosed.
- Shutter will only fire when the release button is let go of rather than depressed
- Shutter release will stay stuck down for a second after taking a shot, causing you to not be able to wind the camera until it returns
- Shutter will often fire with a significant delay from pressing the release causing you to miss images (can be illustrated by a video if necessary)

There's almost no rhyme or reason to what causes this, I've tried with the back plate off, the screws that hold the back on backed off slightly. Different shutter speeds, cleaned contact points with alcohol, examined everything as far as I can see without taking apart the linkage.

I was wondering if anyone has experience the same as this? I'm going to go get my money back but thought I would post in case someone had found an easy fix for this themselves.

Thanks in advance!
Ed

 

[schoster]

Have you checked the position of the lever about the shutter release to see where it is set (either at 0 or T)? Also is the lens set to BULB?? Just curious. A video would help.
Best,

Jimmy

 

[photoeil]

The SWC/M works with something like a circulair mechanism around the back of the lens inside that thin body. It 'rolls' on ball bearings. These must be well oiled (but rather sparingly) which can become dry and sticky by ageing and also can collect dust and perhaps other kind of disturbing partikels.
You can, under some very rare conditions, check this by slightly warming up the camera, around 30°C yet NOT more(!), so then the lubricating could perhaps become a little bit 'soft' (liquid), if the shutter system works, then this can be cured by a rather basic yet well performed CLA (and NOT by applying alcohol nor by forcing it to work by repeatedly firing the system).

And, as you said, it was a bargain, and if so, then the cost of a professional CLA would be 'low', as this magnificent camera is certainly worth it!
Bear in mind that the Carl Zeiss Biogon was, and still is, the world's best wide angle ever designed, that's why Hasselblad made a specially dedicated 'body' for it!

But of corse, this is a rudimentaire insight, over the web, without having the camera in hand and I am NOT a camera technician (but I am using this camera since 1981)...

Good luck!

BTW, applying alcohol near an optical system might loosen the Canada Balsam used to kit the lens elements, even the vapours can do it...

 

[Edwired]

Have you checked the position of the lever about the shutter release to see where it is set (either at 0 or T)? Also is the lens set to BULB?? Just curious. A video would help.
Best,

Jimmy

Yeah I did think it could be that mechanism, made sure the lever was held in O position to avoid any red herrings like that but didn't effect anything.

 

[schoster]

What about the lens shutter setting. Be sure it is not set to B for bulb. If it is, then rotate to a shutter speed such as 30, etc. and try the shutter release again after rewind.

 

[Edwired]

The SWC/M works with something like a circulair mechanism around the back of the lens inside that thin body. It 'rolls' on ball bearings. These must be well oiled (but rather sparingly) which can become dry and sticky by ageing and also can collect dust and perhaps other kind of disturbing partikels.
You can, under some very rare conditions, check this by slightly warming up the camera, around 30°C yet NOT more(!), so then the lubricating could perhaps become a little bit 'soft' (liquid), if the shutter system works, then this can be cured by a rather basic yet well performed CLA (and NOT by applying alcohol nor by forcing it to work by repeatedly firing the system).

And, as you said, it was a bargain, and if so, then the cost of a professional CLA would be 'low', as this magnificent camera is certainly worth it!
Bear in mind that the Carl Zeiss Biogon was, and still is, the world's best wide angle ever designed, that's why Hasselblad made a specially dedicated 'body' for it!

But of corse, this is a rudimentaire insight, over the web, without having the camera in hand and I am NOT a camera technician (but I am using this camera since 1981)...

Good luck!

BTW, applying alcohol near an optical system might loosen the Canada Balsam used to kit the lens elements, even the vapours can do it...

Thanks for the writeup. I've observed the ball bearings, they didn't seem dirty but that's only on the surface. I could see how degraded foam from the cone could fall down into there. I only have sewing machine oil at hand at the moment, service manual suggests Isoflex PDP-48, do you have any idea of an alternative? The internet seems torn between lithium and moly for various camera applications.

I have tried to gently warm the camera when it first arrived, I got no different results unfortunately.

None of the service people I've spoken to have been very helpful. I'm worried that a CLA will be someone not going much further inside than I already have, watching the camera behave fine and send it back to me. Yesterday I had the delayed release happen once in about 36 actuations. Then putting everything back together and coming back later happened 3 times in a row.

Thank you!

 

[Edwired]

What about the lens shutter setting. Be sure it is not set to B for bulb. If it is, then rotate to a shutter speed such as 30, etc. and try the shutter release again after rewind.

I can't make sense of if it's something in particular that causes it. I've gone from a slow speed to a faster one, fast to a slow speed etc. Lots of different combinations and it seems to not discriminate. That's what made me cautiously optimistic that it's not the lens shutter at fault and something in the body failing to trip the lens at the right time.

 

[photoeil]

I have seen a CLA done on Hasselblad camera's several times, and it isn't at all about oil (or grease)!
A good CLA, performed by a well trained (Hasselblad-) technician, is a hours work needing a lot of appropriated tools and skills, and isn't cheap, but worth it.
The last time a CLA was performed on my SWC/M costed me around € 250.-, about 5 years ago, and that camera is still working like a dozen jewel clock, although it was extensively used, while hiking too.
I had a CLA performed on all my Hasselblad gear each 5 to 7 years, when I was a self-employed photographer, just to keep them in good shape, that's why they held for more than 40 years (and still do) and helped paying for the rent.

If you take care for your gear, your gear will take care for you.

BTW, how many balls where there in the bearing, the right amount is needed and it hasn't to be full, but I don't recall how many...

 

[Edwired]

I have seen a CLA done on Hasselblad camera's several times, and it isn't at all about oil (or grease)!
A good CLA, performed by a well trained (Hasselblad-) technician, is a hours work needing a lot of appropriated tools and skills, and isn't cheap, but worth it.
The last time a CLA was performed on my SWC/M costed me around € 250.-, about 5 years ago, and that camera is still working like a dozen jewel clock, although it was extensively used, while hiking too.
I had a CLA performed on all my Hasselblad gear each 5 to 7 years, when I was a self-employed photographer, just to keep them in good shape, that's why they held for more than 40 years (and still do) and helped paying for the rent.

If you take care for your gear, your gear will take care for you.

BTW, how many balls where there in the bearing, the right amount is needed and it hasn't to be full, but I don't recall how many...

I would try adding some grease myself if I could find a consumer equivalent. The camera was cheap but still too much for me as a student to have sunk in something that’s not right so I’m likely going to return it, unless I could do the grease myself.

When I’m in from work I’ll check how many bearings are in that ring, service manual makes no mention of number. It didn’t seem super cramped but there certainly wasn’t a gap.

 

[schoster]

Years ago some one recommended MOEBIUS OIL (WATCH OIL) MAY BE A GOOD CHOICE. JUST A TITCH. AVAILABLE ON THE INTERNET:

Moebius 9010 Synt-A-Lube Watch Oil 2mL LINK TO https://www.esslinger.com/ OR GOOGLE FOR OTHER SUPPLIERS.​

I have never used it however but this high grade Swiss Watch oil would seem like a possible choice. Only a tiny titch of course! I am interested to hear what others think.

 

[rcs907x]

Hi guys,

Recently I bought a bargain SWC/M from but it's got some faults. The camera suffers from shutter issues that were not disclosed.
- Shutter will only fire when the release button is let go of rather than depressed
- Shutter release will stay stuck down for a second after taking a shot, causing you to not be able to wind the camera until it returns
- Shutter will often fire with a significant delay from pressing the release causing you to miss images (can be illustrated by a video if necessary)

There's almost no rhyme or reason to what causes this, I've tried with the back plate off, the screws that hold the back on backed off slightly. Different shutter speeds, cleaned contact points with alcohol, examined everything as far as I can see without taking apart the linkage.

I was wondering if anyone has experience the same as this? I'm going to go get my money back but thought I would post in case someone had found an easy fix for this themselves.

Thanks in advance!
Ed

Contact David Odess, Former Hasselblad technician. I had my 903 cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. David practices the highest ethical standards. Visit his website.

 

[photoeil]

I didn't know that you are a student with limited resources, sorry for that.

But, if you insist, an oil I generally use for this kind of interventions is Ballistol gun oil (which was more that 100 years ago formulated for German army and is still made).
The advantage is that it isn't greasy and drys gently without stiffening, it is so fine that it penetrates the surface structure of the metal and it cleans too.

So, gently and sparingly add some Ballistol with a small painting brush, I use a #3 aquarel brush, all over the system, then soak it up wit a paper towel, so to pick up the old greasing and the dirt.
Repeat that till what is soaked up looks clean, then add, very sparingly, som fresh gun oil.
You have to handle like this as you probably don't have an ultrasone cleaning bath, nor the right tools to dismantle the the system and isolate the opticals.
Leave the camera open for a while so to let escape some of the fumes of the evaporating excess of Ballistol, wait till the typical smell is gone.
I don't promise this wil cure the problem...

But, and I do insist, I advise against a DIY CLA while not having the tools nor the skills, I really do!
Dot it at your owns risk!

PS: Ballistol, which is a mineral oil, can also be used to freshen up and maintaining (ageing-) rubber and plastics, the leatherette covering of camera's and some instruments, some of the light sealing materials, and, ofcourse metals, boots and wood, not to mention the treating of superficial skin wounds of animals (horses and dogs).
I always took a bottle when photographing on location.
See their website for more...