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Hasselblad for a Digi/film kit (Fashion Photography)

R

RVP

New Member
Hi everyone,

I am a young fashion photographer and I uses currently a Nikon D700 as my main work camera.

I love this camera but what I really love is medium format. I was until now a Mamiya user (RB/RZ 67 and 645 AF).

I decided to get a medium format kit that is :

- Compatible with most current DBs (Phase One is the most important for me since I have a rent place with only Phase One backs in my city)
- Usable with Film
- Good lenses
- Easy to find pieces and replacements
- Not too sensitive (I love my RB67 for that. You can do everything you want/need with it and it will be just fine :) )

After talking to the guy at the store, he told me that a Hasselblad 500 would be the best camera for me.

He has a H10 back for 250 €. I think it would be a good thing for my personal work. Plus I can rent another back if needed for a job.

I planned to get a Hasselblad 500 EL. I had one in the hands today and it feels just right. What do you think about this camera ? Is it good ? Durable ? Are there anything better out there ? I do not mind the bulkiness of it.

Which lenses are good ? I want to get a 80 and another lens between 120 and 150. Which are the good ones ?

Thanks for your reading and your help,

RVP
 
Plus I would like to know if it's possible to change the finder to see a line where the back is ?
 
the best you could do is go for a fully mechanical body, ideally a brand new 503cw. (£1500)

Most cheap second-hand V system cameras will need servicing as the mirror/focus will be off... so add an extra £200 for the service on whatever body you get.

so fully mechanical cameras are:

500CM, 501CM and 503CW, i would go for one of those 3... the newer (manufacture year) the more expensive it will be...

any film back will do you good, just make sure you service it as well as you might experience light leaking or frame overlapping...

as for lenses, i would go for an 80mm and a 150mm, CF lenses if possible. keep in mind the crop factor when using a digital back...
 
It is not only the age but also the amount of use, sometimes even abuse a body has seen that determinnes the value.

Ever thought about the H series with AF as feature?


Try to make a plan for lenses.
A classical combination is 50/80/150.
If budget allows this can be extended with a 40 and a 250.

Some users decide for 60/100/180 lenses.
It is not only the focal lenght/AOV but also specific use some lenses are designed for.

The 100 is a low distortortion high resolution lens.
The 120 was designed with Makro in mind.

It may take quite a bit of reading and asking to decide what to go for.


Paul
 
As I said I used a 645 AF and I do not like much the "new" MF cameras (H# and 645 AF...)

I like much more the old ones like the 500 EL.

I am reading a lot of things... and everyone praise for their own system... The ones tells me that I should stick with mamiya, the other ones that the V system is the best thing in the world.

The photographer where I used to assist used only hasselblad V system.

I do not want to take a loan but I feel that having a MF system with DB would help me get more jobs and help improve the quality of my work.
 
I do not want to take a loan but I feel that having a MF system with DB would help me get more jobs and help improve the quality of my work.[/quote]
.....this is an interesting statement to say the least.....

personally i feel you will NOT get more jobs if you had medium format digital.....ther are pro fashion shooters all over the world, esp in the UK these days shooting Canons and Nikons over medium format......

......and as for improving the quality I can only say the look will be different not better or worse......

.....i shoot fashion with Nikon digital and Hasselblad 500 C/M film cos i love the Zeiss lenses I love the look of film.....so trust me when i say this.....

please report back with your thoughts though if you get into medium format digital.....for me the workflow bottleneck in comparison is at the moment not worth the investment.....
 
Rvp

I have an old 500ELM (it says 500EL) and a 503CW.

Don't get the EL -- it's too old. Get the 503CW and winder and you can have access to metering if needed with one of the prisms. The 503CW with the winder feels good in the hand if you need to hand hold it. The ELs are heavy.

BC
 
The 500 ELM labeled as EL is a rare transition model made in the early seventies.
It is in fact an ELM but Hasselblad decided to use the existing stock of EL name plates before the
new model name was to be found at cameras.
Something we can not imagine these days but in the days of Victor this was a not uncommon practise.

Do not get an ELM either for pro use.
Nothing wrong with that camera it will last forever.

The thing to go for is the 500ELX with new mirror system or even better a 553ELX.
The 553ELX is technically the same camera as the 500 but is powered by 5 AA type batteries.
That saves you from the expensive large batteries for the 500ELX or a conversion kit.
The 500 ELX can be found around 250 euro.
Expect to pay twice that price for a good 553ELX body.
Both ELX cameras offer TTL flash as a bonus.


Paul
 
I have talked with one guy at Hasselblad France today and he was really helpfull !

He told me that I could get a v96 C back with hard drive for 2500 in a store near where I live.

DO you think it is a fair price ?

I will get a revised and garanteed ELX then. Thanks for the info.

Do you think that the 120 macro is a great lens ? and which lens would you get other than 80mm and 120 ?

I think the 120 macro is the better lens for beauty work, don't you ?

Thanks,

RVP
 
Take a look at the camera outfit with the V96 back and what is more important
let the seller show you what shooting with that DB means.

The 120 Makro-Planar was designed for close range photography.
My first choice for portraits would be a 150 Sonnar lens.


Paul
 
Rvp

I have a 120mm S-Planar and for head shots it is too short -- you need a 150mm. What I do though is use it with a 1.4X mutar to give it more length.

The 120mm is too sharp for portraits (except grizzled old sea captains) and the 150mm is less sharp and looks more pleasing. I always use a Softar I or a Tiffen Black net for portraits with the 120mm.

For waist up the 120mm is ok for length.

I don't know about the v96c digital back but I bet it has a crop factor which will make the 120mm shoot longer -- so it may be just fine for you.

Keeping in mind the crop factor, then I think a 40mm CFE Distagon would needed as well and then fill it out with a 60mm.

BC
 
BC, Good point to take the crop factor into account.

When using film the 150 Sonnar may not give full frame portraits.
This can be overcome by using a small extension ring, the 8 or the 10 mm.
That is the least expensive way to get full frame head shots.

Even with the 150 Sonnar a softar I or sometimes II may be usefull.

Paul
 
Polypal

You know I forgot about using the extension tubes (rings) to get closer since I used the 120mm with the 1.4 Mutar I never needed the 10 tube (or is there a smaller one?).

The S-Planar that I have is Sooo sharp that I can't use it without some kind of diffusion. I thought that the Softar II had too strong halos so I use a Softar I or the Tiffen black mist.

BC
 
I would suggest you get a latest 501CM or 503CW. Old bodies are fine for film, but might not be well calibrated for digital. I found even some 503CW bodies made in 90's did not have enough precision for digital.
 
Older bodies will be just fine but need to be serviced and calibrated for good results.
That goes both for film and digital capture.

Paul
 
RVP,

I would like to mention again, that I have a 503 CWD Anniversary kit for sale. This might be a good starting point for you, if you want to go digital.

Mc
 
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