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Hasselblad CFV-50

Yes good news. Impressive and not expensive at all if you compare per pixels. I already got a cfv-39, so not for me now.
Good advise to use it with the IF lens. Let see more detail about this.
 
As long as Hasselblad brings new products for the V series we may expect continued service and parts for these cameras.
That is good news!



Vic.
 
I'm not so sure about this. I tried to get a new -1 for my standard viewfinder, at the end, I had to buy it on B.

Very usefull 4x4 finder for digital is impossible to get new too.
Somme second hand stuffs are now more expenssive on B than what is written on official price list.

The one who looks at the doc and wants to buy the same has to understant that the 202FA on the picture is discontinued since ...10 years and if he succed to get one, he has to pay a conversion.

Well very happy with my CFV-39 and to see the new CFV-50; anyway, to enter the digital V owner club is a war agains Hasselblad marketing strategy !
 
Cfv-50

as a happy user of the CFV-39, I don't see much added value in a CFV-50. The back is even 20% more expensive. The framesize remains 36.7x49.1mm, thus crop of 1.1. They just put in Kodak's newest
KAF40000 sensor. Nothing more. I appreciate this move, but nothing more than that. I think it is a smart move to get more money out of a written-off V-series. Good marketing, but far away from a square sensor
of 56x56mm.
The V-series is trimmed to a minimum. Agree, H-series is their workhorse.

blowupster said:
I'm not so sure about this. I tried to get a new -1 for my standard viewfinder, at the end, I had to buy it on B.

Very usefull 4x4 finder for digital is impossible to get new too.
Somme second hand stuffs are now more expenssive on B than what is written on official price list.

The one who looks at the doc and wants to buy the same has to understant that the 202FA on the picture is discontinued since ...10 years and if he succed to get one, he has to pay a conversion.

Well very happy with my CFV-39 and to see the new CFV-50; anyway, to enter the digital V owner club is a war agains Hasselblad marketing strategy !
Click to expand...
 
JAT said:
The V-series is trimmed to a minimum. Agree, H-series is their workhorse.
Click to expand...

Truthfully, if I were to buy a medium format digital back I'd just trade in my V-series and spring for the H-series. The reason is that I had the Kodak digital back and all I can say is that getting a meter reading, then transferring it to the camera manually was actually kind of inconvenient. Doing it with film was one thing because it was expected, but doing that with digital just didn't seem right. I think it's because digital is electronic and usually anything electronic is expected to be done for us. At least that's my feeling. Sure, I use a hand held light meter periodically with my DSLR, but that's not the sole method of taking pictures if I don't want to use the handheld.

With the V-series using a handheld or in prism meter and transferring the EV to the camera manually is the only game in town. I know that's not really a big deal, but again, I just expect it done for me. With the H-series that's taken care of so a photographer can concentrate on his/her subject.
 
Well most of time I use my Hasselblad handheld with my 203FE. Happy to have metering inside, anyway, most of time I use manually. When I use 4x4 viewfinder I can't see the metering system. It's not so important anyway. The best metering system is the digital back with histograms. Years ago I got the Canon 350D as I need a metering system for Hasselblad that works faster than polaback. Let say that no metering system is needed with digital back. In fact I really dislike to spend time on computer for exposure setting, so I'm very happy to have digital measuring now as I had TTL measuring before. With manual mode (+ digital control on screen) I have about 90% of pictures without correction as I had only 40% with automatic TTL. When I used slides, 95% where correct too.
I never found a correct metering system when I go to opera: light is really hard and shadows everywhere. Screen checking on the back is perfect for the job.
I could add about TTL flash that does not works with digital back, The E-TTL or M-TTL makes the same like me : prexpose, chose parameters and the shoot..
 
blowupster said:
I'm not so sure about this. I tried to get a new -1 for my standard viewfinder, at the end, I had to buy it on B.
Click to expand...

I mentioned parts and service. Accessoiries are a different game.

At the moment Hasselblad offers only the following lenses for the V series:
40 mm CFi IF, 50 mm CFi, 100 mm CFi, 120 mm CFi and he 150 CFi.
No more CFE versions, no more 30 mm fisheye, no more tele tessars.

All prisms, 45° and 90° are gone too. The same goes for chimney finders.
Only one or two correction lenses for the WLF are left.
Supply of accessoiries is often better from independent Hasselblad specialists than from official dealers.

Keep in mind the moderator has probably one of the largest stocks of new and used items for V series cameras.


Vic.
 
V-series

I can agree that the H-series is more versatile with respect to handling, but not as versatile as my Nikon D3x. On the other hand, I use the CFV-39 mostly (+90%) for studiophotography with controlled flashlight.
For ourdoors, I am very happy with the 45deg. metering prism. And if you miss by a stop or two, one can easily correct in Phocus or Photoshop afterwards.

nathantw666 said:
Truthfully, if I were to buy a medium format digital back I'd just trade in my V-series and spring for the H-series. The reason is that I had the Kodak digital back and all I can say is that getting a meter reading, then transferring it to the camera manually was actually kind of inconvenient. Doing it with film was one thing because it was expected, but doing that with digital just didn't seem right. I think it's because digital is electronic and usually anything electronic is expected to be done for us. At least that's my feeling. Sure, I use a hand held light meter periodically with my DSLR, but that's not the sole method of taking pictures if I don't want to use the handheld.

With the V-series using a handheld or in prism meter and transferring the EV to the camera manually is the only game in town. I know that's not really a big deal, but again, I just expect it done for me. With the H-series that's taken care of so a photographer can concentrate on his/her subject.
Click to expand...
 
JAT said:
And if you miss by a stop or two, one can easily correct in Phocus or Photoshop afterwards.
Click to expand...

Jat

NO , you can NOT .
It looks as if you can do so , but the image information you lost by either
over exposure or under exposure can not be regained . (the same as with film)
What you do in PHOCUS , is stretching or compressing your histogram .
In many cases you will not directly notice missing image information , because the far left end part (of the histogram) is dead black and the far right end part is white without image information anyway .

The far left part of the histogram corresponds to zone 1 and 2 and does not have reproduceable image information , but zone 3 does .
The far right end holds zone 9 and ten . We do not see any image information there . But we see information in zone 8 .

If your exposure is low by say 2 stops , you will not have image information from zone 8 .
If your exposure is high by say 2 stops the zone 8 information is wasted and actually outside the histogram .
In both cases you loose image information , which can not be regained , as stated above .

Solution : Expose as exact as possible .
For the CFV-16 LCD screen at contrast setting 5 , your right end of the histogram should not exceed 85% - 90% .
If you set the contrast of the back's screen down to zero , expose that the histogram reaches 100% .

If you under expose and then stretch the histogram you will more likely also produce noise in your image .
 
yes, thank you I know that, but bracketing helps a lot. Put in a 32 GB card and one can make more than 500 exposures

jotloob said:
Jat

NO , you can NOT .
It looks as if you can do so , but the image information you lost by either
over exposure or under exposure can not be regained . (the same as with film)
What you do in PHOCUS , is stretching or compressing your histogram .
In many cases you will not directly notice missing image information , because the far left end part (of the histogram) is dead black and the far right end part is white without image information anyway .

The far left part of the histogram corresponds to zone 1 and 2 and does not have reproduceable image information , but zone 3 does .
The far right end holds zone 9 and ten . We do not see any image information there . But we see information in zone 8 .

If your exposure is low by say 2 stops , you will not have image information from zone 8 .
If your exposure is high by say 2 stops the zone 8 information is wasted and actually outside the histogram .
In both cases you loose image information , which can not be regained , as stated above .

Solution : Expose as exact as possible .
For the CFV-16 LCD screen at contrast setting 5 , your right end of the histogram should not exceed 85% - 90% .
If you set the contrast of the back's screen down to zero , expose that the histogram reaches 100% .

If you under expose and then stretch the histogram you will more likely also produce noise in your image .
Click to expand...
 
Not a lot of info about this CFV-50. Anyone knows more about ?

What about the writing speed. With my CFV-39+ winder I'm limited.
What about asa ?
800 is not bad anyway, but...

Perhaps software update ?
When I zoom in the back screen I would like to see the histograms of the showed crops, not the one of the whole picture.
Perhpas a manual pre-setting for lenses on the back: I will take 50 pictures with the same lens at same aperture and same distance; so phocus will just "export" files in jpg
 
looks like just more pixels, 50 in stead of 39. the rest is much the same from what I saw in Koeln. waiting to see Phocus 2.6
blowupster said:
Not a lot of info about this CFV-50. Anyone knows more about ?

What about the writing speed. With my CFV-39+ winder I'm limited.
What about asa ?
800 is not bad anyway, but...

Perhaps software update ?
When I zoom in the back screen I would like to see the histograms of the showed crops, not the one of the whole picture.
Perhpas a manual pre-setting for lenses on the back: I will take 50 pictures with the same lens at same aperture and same distance; so phocus will just "export" files in jpg
Click to expand...
 
If I compare to H4D-50, it seams that the 50 works faster. 1.1 to write a picture, 1.4 sec to write with a CFV-39.
Perhaps with squared pictures it may be possible to use the winder freely for few shots.
 
I re-read the Hasselblad info about CFV-50. They say that all Hasselblad V works with this one even 203 and 205.

As it does never say anything about modifying 203, I suspect that they modify the trigger mode and allow to use unmodified 203 or 201F bodies.

Waiting more when it will be for sale.
 
blowupster said:
As it does never say anything about modifying 203, I suspect that they modify the trigger mode and allow to use .
Click to expand...

Not true .

Have a look for the CFV-50 specifications and details on the HASSELBLAD homepages and you will see that the 202FA , 203FE and the 205 models need a modification when you want to use the F/FE type lenses . This modification will be the same as the one which was done to these cameras in the past .
 
Ok, I discover the cfv-50 as it was not published few days ago.

Wait the day that the cfv technical page will be published here.
I wonder if there is improvement for buffer to use the speedy winder of the 203 !

Anyway, very happy with my cfv-39 !

By the way I noticed that my 2000FC/M (in F mode and C mode) seams to works fine with the cfv if I set 500.
Did anyone else try it ?
 
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