Medium Format Forum

Register a free account now!

If you are registered, you get access to the members only section, can participate in the buy & sell second hand forum and last but not least you can reserve your preferred username before someone else takes it.

Auto Focus on H Series

bladdered

Member
Hi,
A toe in the water question here; no serious intention to buy..... yet.

I shoot weddings, portraits and street scenes with a 1D Mk4, M9 and V series. I'm contemplating shooting 'more considered' work and reducing the fast reportage approach, or leaving to the Leica. Therefore is the H a replacement for my 1D4 ?

My query here relates t the AF on the H Series. The Contax 645 was a very popular wedding photographers tool, but they seemed to abandon the AF and use manual focus because it was slow. My 1D4 is lightning fast, but I don't think I need it to be that fast. So, is the H Series much too slow for impromptu wedding shooting, or is it really fast and accurate enough to capture slow moving subjects?

16 & 18 mb files service most of my requirements and provide better quality than my clients have ever seen; 40 mb files may slow the post processing down too much, although there will inevitably be fewer files captured. Who needs a 40mb file of a cake shot, or a pair of shoes, I ask myself ? It used to be two rolls of film on a Rolleiflex, now it's 800 images to leave 650 in the Trash.

Anybody using an H as the prime camera in a wedding business ?
 
Not as prime, but i use it inbetween. AF is lightening fast.. the real issue is capture time. When shooting, it's not fast at all. Takes about a capture per second. As opposed to 35mm folks snappy 8 shots in a second or two.

That's the only real slowness of the system from my perspective.
 
Not as prime, but i use it inbetween. AF is lightening fast.. the real issue is capture time. When shooting, it's not fast at all. Takes about a capture per second. As opposed to 35mm folks snappy 8 shots in a second or two.

That's the only real slowness of the system from my perspective.

That's good info, thanks. I've got a rangefinder for the candids, but to raise the quality of the of the formals and the portraits might be worth developing. I'm not trigger happy and might take two or three shots of a group to make sure their eyes are open, etc. Portraits won't be an issue of speed as I've used a CFV for that in the past and it was wonderful. Maybe a couple inside a church during the choir as well and one from the back.

This has come up because my film MF camera is in for repair and if it fails, I'd consider using the H to pair with my M9, good focus is vital to me and I think I'll start struggling with manual focus in the years to come. If the H was slow, or unreliable AF, I would go in a different direction.
 
The H4 has an improved AF system that beats any alternatives.
This AF also corrects focus depending on selected aperture.
 
The H4 has an improved AF system that beats any alternatives.
This AF also corrects focus depending on selected aperture.

Paul, is that confined to any MF alternative, or speed to match a dslr ?

If you could expand on the aperture related focus, that would be good as I've not heard of that before.
 
AF speed compared to other MF cameras.

Focus is slightly influenced by stopping down. Hasselblad H4 corrects this difference.
Clever guys these Swedes are not they?
 
Sorry, I'm a tad slow in answering here ... but I'll make up for it in length ... LOL!

Yes, I use an H4D/40 kit for weddings, engagement shots, and portraits (both studio and environmental location). It is the MFD camera I'd recommend for this type of shooting.

As many friends here know, I completely opted out of the V system and sold my 949 scanner. My sole concentration for MF is now H digital.

Focusing Accuracy: with the advent of True Focus/Focus Lock on the H4D, it is now faster and more accurate to use AF for off-center subject focal points than with a 35mm DSLR ... and more clinically accurate. You do not have to wheel a focus point off-center in the view finder, just point the center focus point anywhere, even the very far edge of the frame, press the TF/AF button and recompose. The camera instantaneously computes the adjustments to keep the selected subject in focus. Works in landscape and portrait modes.

Focusing speed: I used a Contax 645 ... the H is a bolt of lightening in comparison. Not as fast as most pro level 35mm DSLRs, but fast enough for most wedding work. Hasselblad has also improved the focus assist light on the H4D cameras. The H4D is faster to lock-on in fast paced situations when using the conventional single AF setting compared to using True Focus. However, I still at least take a Sony A900 with a Zeiss 24-70 for some lower light action shots, and as back-up to the H4D/40.

Flash: I find speed-light work to be faster with the H than with any other camera I've used, 35mm DSLRs included. The H camera takes over all command of the flash, and fill-flash exposure comp is a grip button push way and visible in the viewfinder. I now do fill-flash compensation without removing my eye from the viewfinder.

Capture rate: The H4D/40 is about 50 captures a minute sustained shooting ... or a nano tad over one a second. I don't hose off shots with any camera, so have never found it to be an issue ... besides, the lights usually take that long to recycle anyway : -)

Hand-holding: When shooting lower shutter speeds, the H has an advantage being leaf shutter, leaving only mirror slap to deal with. Hasselblad has provided a menu item called mirror delay that mitigates mirror slap and allows lower shutter speeds with less vibration. It works, trust me. I also use a Camadapter Hand strap to steady the camera. If I told you how slow of a shutter speed I've gotten away with, you call me a lier : -)

See this 1/25 shutter, ISO 1600 ambient light shot done hand-held:

http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20796&highlight=show+high+ISO+shots

ISO Performance: The H4D40 has ISO 100 to 1600 ... and 1600 is usable, not a mock ISO. It is about a stop (or slightly more) better than the H3D-II/31 I used prior ... meaning H4's ISO 1600 looks like ISO 800 from the 31, and 400 looks like 200 on the 31 camera.

White Balance: The H camera allows you to assign any user button to fire a manual WB shot. No menu to navigate, nothing, just press the button, the camera fires a shot and sets the WB. I have mine set to fire when the stop down button on the front of the grip is pressed. Fastest camera I own for manual WB ... so I use it all the time ... which in turn saves oodles of time in post.

LCD: like all MFD backs, it sucks. However there is a histogram in the grip LCD for more accurate exposure evaluation.

Processing: For any high volume processing like weddings and events, I directly use Lightroom 3.3. You do not have to use Phocus at all. I take all images shot with the H4D/40, Leica M9s, Sony A900, and my assistant's Canon 5D and download them to one file sorted by time shot. In LR I then use the meta-data sort function to select just the H4D/40 shots for processing with presets and batching. The H4D shots take a nano second longer than the M9 shots to resolve, but nothing really of issue. I use Phocus for critical shots and tethered work. Phocus was a bit slow until I upgraded my Graphics card to a Radeon HD 5770. Now it's greasy fast.

Actual usage: I generally take the H and 3 lenses ... I use a Think-Tank lens bag to carry two of the lenses and the third is on the camera. This allows mobility and to travel with the clients from one location to the next. I also use a Mono-Pod with a RRS Mono Head designed for MF cameras. The Arca QR base plate on the camera has two lugs, so I have a hand-strap on one side and a "bouncy" type shoulder strap on the other.

MFD advantages: way more ability to crop and retain the ability to make larger prints. My larger print sales increased by just showing MFD prints. More dynamic range and color depth compared to 35mm DSLRs even at the same print sizes. More head-room for manipulation. Greater separation from the 35mm toting masses. Spectacular group shot abilities ... I've shot everyone that attended a wedding (110 people) and everyone is crystal clear in large prints.

Marc

P.S., shots like this one below, which was a bit of a crop from the original shot (along with an even more cropped portion for review), sells like hot cakes in larger print form.
While I do mostly candid work, this type of "magazine style" imagery is becoming more popular than before (i.e.: $$$$$) ... which is why I'm taking the H to more and more weddings.
 

Attachments

  • Bride-Reclining-1.jpg
    EXIF
    Bride-Reclining-1.jpg
    531.8 KB · Views: 29
  • Bride-Reclining-2.jpg
    EXIF
    Bride-Reclining-2.jpg
    554.7 KB · Views: 29
  • Bride-Reclining-1.jpg
    EXIF
    Bride-Reclining-1.jpg
    531.8 KB · Views: 28
  • Bride-Reclining-2.jpg
    EXIF
    Bride-Reclining-2.jpg
    554.7 KB · Views: 30
Dear Marc,
what lenses you use for H camera? for a wedding work? you were saying, you carrying three lenses..

Thank you!

Meir
 
Dear Marc,
what lenses you use for H camera? for a wedding work? you were saying, you carrying three lenses..

Thank you!

Meir

Mier, the 100/2.2 is a standard for all weddings and portraits ... it's usually one of the three. The other two depend on the lighting, application and subject matter. Church interiors = the 28HCD ... specifically important on the H4D/40 because of the 1.3X crop factor. The third is usually a longer lens ... either the 150N or 210 depending on distance to subject or how much I may want to compress the foreground/background relationship ... and the subject's body type and facial structure (I avoid the 210 and even the 150 sometimes with heavier set people).

Now that I have the 35-90 it depends on what light I'm shooting in because the 35-90 is a slower max aperture. Sometimes just the 35-90 and a longer lens outdoors, or with studio strobes.

At times when there are lots of locations to work with, and we're driving to each one, I take a roller bag with most everything and select lenses from it to put in the Think-Tank lens shoulder-bag ... and take off with the clients at that location ... which can be off in the woods or a park where lugging the whole kit doesn't work.

Hope this helps,

-Marc

BTW, here's an ISO400 candid grab shot with the 35-90 @ 50mm ... for this subject I only used the 35-90 when we went "off road" because she was a more full figured woman ... (note: I added the vignetting in post.)
 

Attachments

  • Woods.jpg
    EXIF
    Woods.jpg
    530.5 KB · Views: 32
  • Woods.jpg
    EXIF
    Woods.jpg
    530.5 KB · Views: 31
Dear Marc,
Thanks for reply! i was wondering about 35-90 lens. I was thinking of getting 50-110 for basically full body and headshots in studio and location.
Have you use 50-110 before?
thanks
Meir
 
Dear Marc,
Thanks for reply! i was wondering about 35-90 lens. I was thinking of getting 50-110 for basically full body and headshots in studio and location.
Have you use 50-110 before?
thanks
Meir

I've worked with shooters that had that lens, but never owned it myself. I wouldn't probably get it now because it overlaps the 35-90 to much, and I use the 100/2.2 and 120 beyond that in studio. The 35-90 is 45.5mm to 117mm when on the H4D/40 ... which is a very nice general range to work with.

-Marc
 
Marc

Your comments on your use of the H series camera is one of the most useful I have read.


One question - do you ever find the 1/800 shutter speed a handicap. For instance when shooting the bride backlit by the afternoon sun, with fill flash and wanting to keep the sky blue?

Thank You.

mal mac
 
Marc


Thank you for your most informative posts on using the H4D when shooting weddings.

You mentioned Flash but did not say what flash unit you are using.

Could you please supply a bit more information on using flash in the field?

Thank you in advance.


mal @ malmac
 
H4D and flash ...

I use a couple of different flash set-ups for wedding photography when shooting with the H4D/40.

Metz 54MZ-3 with the Hasselblad branded TTL module. Metz 70MZ-5 for a bit more powerful flash, which uses the same TTL module ... finally a 400 w/s Elinchrom Quadra portable battery kit with two heads.

For general shadow fill outdoors, the slightly diffused speed-light in the hot-shoe usually does the trick. If I know I will be shooting a larger group, I often take the 70 handle mount which gives me about a stop more for greater DOF. What I like about the H camera is that it assumes full control of the flash unit, no need to fuss with the little buttons on the flash itself. You see stuff like flash comp in the viewfinder when using TTL.

Whenever possible I take the Quadra to do the in-church formals ... it's a bit more work to set-up, but the final results are well worth it and virtually eliminated post processing issues from mixed light and awkward ambient lighting directions ... not to mention that I can shoot at f/8. Very clean light.

I also use the Quadra for location portraits using a Quadra head mounted in a beauty dish on a telescoping pole for mobile off-camera placement of the light ... usually with an assistant or other person to act as a light stand with legs for me ... LOL! When I do this, I have the 54MZ-3 in the hot shoe for TTL fill, and the Quadra radio trigger mounted on a Kirk grip with a sync cord from the trigger to the camera ... so both the strobe and speedlight fire. Works crazy well.

-Marc
 
Hi Marc

Thank you for taking the time to answer questions re your use of flash with your H4D.

I am using pocket wizard triggers with my Canon 1D to control both my Canon flash units and I have a Profoto 600w portable unit but with only one head. So the idea of using something similar with the H4D seems self evident. I guess I am just trying to get a sense of how much of my existing lighting gear is going to be able to be used with the H4D and what other equipment I might need.

I already expect that I may need a Metz flash to use as an on camera flash if the Metz 76 will give me more puch than is available with my existing Canon 580ex2's (the Metz 76 Mz5 - claims 12 f stops so I assume that will be more than the 580 would give me).

Are these the sort of Kirk brackets you are using with your H4D?

Thanks again for your help.

mal
 

Attachments

  • PBintro1.jpg
    EXIF
    PBintro1.jpg
    16.3 KB · Views: 46
  • pic_preview.jpg
    EXIF
    pic_preview.jpg
    11.2 KB · Views: 46
  • PBintro1.jpg
    EXIF
    PBintro1.jpg
    16.3 KB · Views: 46
  • pic_preview.jpg
    EXIF
    pic_preview.jpg
    11.2 KB · Views: 46
Back
Top